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A New Midsole Material for Sport Shoes

what is used to construct shoe outsoles

As a New Midsole Material Launches has Adidas Boost Foam met its match?

Adidas and BASF turned heads with the introduction of the futuristic Boost Foam technology. The unique midsole material has performance advantages and a distinctive look. Boost foam is actually a new formulation of a common plastic, TPU. TPU or Thermoplastic poly-Urethane Boost is “blown” meaning the chemical engineers at Adidas and BASF have figured out a way to introduce air bubbles into the plastic making a new TPU foam.

The challenge of making Boost TPU foam midsoles

Steam Expansion Equipment to make Adidas Boost.

The texture, while distinctive, makes all Boost midsoles look alike. This distinctive look is great for marketing launches but designers need the ability to make shoes look different year to year.

Boost foam also has a color issue. The TPU foam cannot be molded in color so the midsoles must be painted. Painting midsoles adds cost to the product and even flexible paint can be scratched off or chipped off the foam surface.

The Boost midsole also requires special steam expansion equipment not found in the standard shoe factory.

A new midsole foam better than Boost?

New foam uses standard equipment

Today we visited an EVA pressing factory with a new compound in development. This new midsole foam is a mixture of EVA and TPU. This new foam has the resilient, wrinkle-free feeling of Boost foam but it can be made with standard EVA forming machines. The foam maker is hush hush about the exact compound but he tells us the new foam is about 30% TPU and 70% EVA.

This new midsole compound is lighter than standard EVA and can be molded in any color like standard EVA midsole foam. This new EVA TPU foam is a little more expensive than standard EVA but costs much less than Adidas TPU Boost foam.

new Midsole Foam
New foam with co-molded rubber bottom
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Shoemakers Academy joins the 2018 Footwear Design Summit

Footwear Design Summit

FDRA Footwear Design Summit

Long Beach, California  |  Wednesday, October 24, 2018
FDRA and the Footwearists are excited to announce the launch of the Footwear Design Summit—the first and only summit focused on helping development leads and shoe designers explore and understand new software, technology, trends, and tools changing how we design shoes in a speed-to-market world.

Wade Motawi the footwear designer behind Shoemakers Academy.com and the popular shoemaking books How Shoes Are Made, Shoe Material Design Guide and How To Start Your Own Shoe Company will be speaking on the subject of design for manufacturing.

Please join us in Long Beach!  FDRA Footwear Design Summit

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How Designer Handbags are Made

handbag designs 2015 simple purse pattern

How Designer Handbags are Made

As a shoe designer you may be called upon to work on many different soft goods projects.  My design career started with bag design, moved on to footwear design, and now I work in both fields every day.

You will find that footwear and fashion handbags have a lot  in common. Many of the design and manufacturing aspects are the same. Footwear and designer handbag materials and constructions are very similar. While shoe patterns and handbag patterns are very different they do have many of the same processing requirements.

When I saw the crew over at FASHIONARY had put together new book on bag design, I could not resist adding it to my own design library. The book is titled BAG DESIGN, and that says it all. Inside you will find style notes, detail drawings, pattern designs, spec sheets and material guides. The book is very complete. More than just designs for handbags, the book contains over 60 design templates for all types of bags from wallets, to golf bags, to backpacks and more.

You can pick up this book from Amazon.com

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Shoe Design: Know your Footbeds

Get to now your footbeds!

The footbed or insole or sockliner, whatever you call it is important to the fit, feel, performance and cost of your shoe design.  Footbeds come in all shapes, sizes and materials,  It’s important to make the right selection to compliment your shoe design.

When a shoe is in development it’s important to have  plan for the footbed.  Each shoe last will have a “sock allowance” build into the bottom, this creates the space inside the shoe, in can be 4 mm or 6mm or more.  You have the get this right or you shoe won’t fit quite right, then again a little extra foam in your footbed can be used to fine tune and fitting issues.

The footbed is also key to the lifespan of your shoe.  A thin footbed made of too soft, cheap foam can collapse after just a few days leaving the shoe fitting loose and your customer with tired feet.   The ability for a foam to survive being placed underfoot is called it’s compression set or compression resistance.  Not all foams are suitable for long lasting footbed service!  Shoe companies are now putting in better footbeds, in the past you could find a cheap $.65 footbed in a pair of $100.00 running shoes!

Common shoe footbed types.

Footbeds basically come in two construction types.  Molded or die cut.  The molded footbeds are made of Compression molded EVA, Poured PU (polyurethane foam),  Latex & Cork, sponge rubber or PE (polyethylene) foam.   You can add to the molded footbed other features like Injection molded stiffeners,  support frames, gel pods or air bags.   The sky is the limit!  But you need to remember a $4.00 footbed will add almost $20.00 to the retail price of your shoe!

PU-FootBed-PouringThe molded footbed is a must for performance athletic shoes, the contours will support the foot and hold the foot in place.  Hiking, hunting and military boots need a molded footbeds. The strobel shoes may be a thinner as the inside of  the shoe will have more contours from the last and molded midsoles.   Stiffer board lasted boots should have a molded footbed to provide support and fill up the square corners near the edges.
shoe design flat footbedThe die cut footbed can the the cheapest piece of junk or it can be really plush.  Die cut does not have to mean cheap.  Yes the most basic shoes will have thin die cut footbeds made of soft EVA-Food-Bed-PressEVA foam that will last just a few weeks.  High end shoes can have really nice leather-covered die cut footbeds made with multiple layers of high quality long lasting PU foam, neoprene rubber or gel sheet. Fashion
and casual shoes can have die cut footbeds. Soccer cleats, the even expensive ones, often have thin die cut footbeds.

Footbed cover fabric.

Footbeds can come with making different cover fabrics or linings.  The best fabrics have enough grip to hold your feet in place.  Too smooth will not be stable, to grippy will ruin your socks.  Running shoes, hiking boot footbeds need abrasion resistant materials to last for miles and miles.  The footbed material must resist crocking (crocking is color transfer by friction or rubbing).  Your shoes should not discolor your socks.   Leather footbeds are nice, but maybe not the best for athletic shoes.

Other footbed features.

Footbeds can be multiple densities of foam.   They can have perforations or other venting features.  Moisture wicking fabric covers or bright graphics are a nice touch.  Most companies will have their own molds with refined shapes and molded in logos.  Another trick companies use is a very soft latex foam wedge under the heel, this latex will last for a while but after a few days or a week it will be crushed flat.  This is done to improve the “try on” or “in store” feeling.  For winter boots or hunting boots you will find insulated footbeds with heat reflecting coatings.

Shop around, try on many different styles of shoes, you will find lots of options.  Let price, performance and comfort be your guide!