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Adobe Illustrator vs. Affinity Designer: Choosing the Right Tools for Footwear Design

Draw shoes with Adobe Illustrator and Affinity Designer

Adobe Illustrator vs. Affinity Designer

When it comes to footwear design, having the right software at your disposal can significantly impact your creative process and productivity. In this blog post, we will compare two popular design tools, Adobe Illustrator and Affinity Designer, and explore their suitability for footwear design.

Adobe Illustrator has long been the industry standard for vector-based design, and it offers a robust set of tools that cater to professional designers. With its precise vector drawing capabilities and extensive control over anchor points and curves, Illustrator empowers footwear designers to create intricate and detailed shoe designs. Its powerful Pen Tool and Shape Builder Tool allow for seamless creation and manipulation of design elements, while features like Live Paint make it easy to experiment with colors and textures.










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Additionally, Adobe Illustrator’s vast library of brushes, symbols, and effects enables designers to add depth and realism to their footwear designs. The software’s integration with other Adobe Creative Cloud applications, such as Photoshop and InDesign, facilitates a smooth workflow for designers who need to collaborate across different design disciplines or create marketing materials for their footwear collections.

On the other hand, Affinity Designer has emerged as a compelling alternative to Illustrator, particularly for those seeking a more budget-friendly option. Affinity Designer offers a similar range of vector drawing tools, allowing footwear designers to create complex and precise designs. Its user-friendly interface and intuitive controls make it accessible to both beginners and experienced designers alike.

One notable advantage of Affinity Designer for footwear design is its exceptional performance, even when handling large and complex projects. This responsiveness is especially valuable when working on intricate shoe patterns or 3D models. Affinity Designer also provides comprehensive color management tools, allowing designers to create accurate and vibrant color palettes for their footwear designs.

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In terms of compatibility, Adobe Illustrator has an edge due to its widespread usage and recognition in the industry. Many suppliers, manufacturers, and collaborators are familiar with Illustrator’s file formats, such as .ai and .eps, which ensures seamless communication and compatibility throughout the footwear design process. However, Affinity Designer offers robust export options, including popular file formats like .svg and .pdf, making it compatible with most design workflows.

When it comes to pricing, Adobe Illustrator operates on a subscription-based model as part of the Adobe Creative Cloud suite. This can be advantageous for designers who require access to multiple Adobe applications and regular updates. However, it may be cost-prohibitive for independent designers or those on a tight budget. In contrast, Affinity Designer offers a one-time purchase option, providing a more affordable solution without compromising on features and functionality.

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Ultimately, the choice between Adobe Illustrator and Affinity Designer for footwear design depends on your specific needs, preferences, and budget. If you require extensive integration with other design tools and prioritize industry-standard software, Adobe Illustrator is a reliable choice. On the other hand, if you are looking for a more affordable option without compromising on performance and functionality, Affinity Designer provides a compelling alternative.

Both software options offer powerful features that can enhance the footwear design process, from initial sketches to final production-ready designs. Regardless of your choice, investing time in mastering either Adobe Illustrator or Affinity Designer will undoubtedly contribute to elevating your footwear design skills and unlocking your creative potential.

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Make Your Shoe Design Factory Ready: Shoe Maker’s Pre-Flight Checklist

Make Your Shoe Design Factory Ready: Shoe Maker's 10 Point Pre-Flight Checklist

Making a beautiful design drawing of your new shoe idea is a great first step; now, it’s time to finish your design. The design drawing is just one piece of information you need to communicate your design to the shoe factory. To ensure your sample shoe looks and functions just as you imagined, you’ll need to detail every aspect of your design. 

Shoe Designers Pre-Flight Checklist. 

Shoe Design Check list You need a shoe Last.

Before the factory can create the initial samples for your shoe design, you will need to supply a last. Your factory may have a suitable last in their stock, or the factory can have a matching last made to order from a sample shoe. It’s best to make your design drawings with the last in hand, but you can duplicate the silhouette before you have the physical last in your hands if you are following a competitor’s sample. If you are designing for an established shoe brand, the brand may be able to give you the correct last before you start your project. 

Shoe Design Check list Shoe design drawings

You will need a complete set of shoe design drawings. With your design idea and last silhouette, you can create a complete set of drawings for your footwear specifications. The factory needs drawings with every design line clearly detailed. Your set of drawings should include:

shoe design tech pack

Lateral View (outside of the shoe) 
Medial View (inside of the shoe)
Heel View (view from the back) 
Tongue View (showing any logo art) 
Vamp View (looking down on the toe) 
Detailed views of any small plastic parts

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Shoe Design Check list Outsole design drawings

You will need a complete set of outsole design drawings. Outsole blueprints are difficult and time-consuming to make. As a designer, your responsibility is to detail the outsole unit’s style lines and character details. The exact shape and size of the outsole is the responsibility of the outsole design engineer. The design engineer will take your shoe sole design and measurements from the lasted upper and create detailed technical drawings. You will need to supply the design engineer with the following drawings:

how to draw shoe outsoles

Outsole side profile
OutsoleTop view to show technical details
Outsole bottom view to show the tread pattern
Detail views of injection parts
Cross-section views of length and width

Shoe Design Check list Stitching design and seam details

If your shoe is sewn together, you need to add the stitching details to your drawings. The stitching detail lines will show which pattern parts are overlays and underlays. You should also communicate if the stitches are single line, double line, zig-zag, thin thread, or heavy thread. If your design entails rolled edges, binding edges, Frenched edges, butt seams, or overlays, you need to communicate these details in your drawings.

Shoe Design Check list Shoe upper material map

The material map is a drawing that clearly shows the materials you have in mind for each part. The factory uses this information to make the appropriate pattern for the parts. A die-cut leather part will have a different pattern from a fabric part of the same shape made with rolled edges.

What materials are Nike shoes made of?
Shoe Design Check list Color map


Color map of the first sample colorway. A color map diagram of upper and outsole parts shows the factory where to add color dams or pattern breaks.    

Color map showing future plans for color breaks
Shoe Design Check list Texture map

Texture map showing the surface details of every part. The surface texture is an important part of your shoe design. Texture specifications will add an extra dimension to your shoe designs. 

Shoe Design Check list Logo Designs

Logo designs: Take extra care to draw your logos in the exact scale they will appear on your shoe design. This step will ensure the logos are legible and will help you decide how to execute your color. For example, a 3D mold or laser can create tiny letters 2mm tall, while an embroidery machine requires lettering to be a minimum of 5mm tall to be readable.    

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Shoe Design Check list Foam padding specs

Foam padding specs: The foam padding specifications for the shoe tongue, collar, and upper padding are critical when defining your shoe’s silhouette. Is your shoe designed as sleek or puffy? Detail these parts carefully to get the look you desire.   

Shoe Design Check list Reinforcement & construction notes

Reinforcement specs and construction notes: Tell the factory exactly how you want your shoe made. Is your shoe a soft Stobel bottomed casual shoe or a sturdy board-lasted walking shoe? It’s best if you can detail the construction you require. If you are unsure how to make the shoe, do your best to explain the functionality necessary and ask your factory developer to help you specify the best construction process.  

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Online Footwear Design

Franck Boistel the Sole Explorer

Franck Boistel the Sole Explorer

My friend, Franck Boistel, is an incredible shoe designer with over 25 years of experience designing all types of footwear. To be a pro, you must learn from a pro!

E-mail: Instafronck@gmail.com

What: Franck’s footwear design workshop
When: New sessions starting throughout the year
How: E-mail Instafronck@gmail.com for details

WHY: Franck is excited to share his experience and the unique way he designs footwear products. Details from Franck below.

From Franck Boistel – Sole Explorer:
We will talk about visualizing before designing, how to get inspired, ways to prepare your sketch, what tools to use, how to render, how to tape up an upper, how to make technical specs ready for the factory and all aspects of footwear design as well as how to prospect and be great and feel great in a design studio environment and working efficiently with your teammates. I look forward to talking with you!

I have 25 years of experience in designing cutting edge footwear in the action sports, fashion, lifestyle, outdoor categories, from concepts to production, for men, women, and children.
Specialties: Trend Forecasting – Footwear design for men, women, and children – Footwear and Industrial Design in
Lifestyle, Action Sports, Fashion, Outdoor, Tactical and Casual categories.

Franck Boistel has brought the world some of the most
recognized footwear styles in action sports, fashion,
outdoor, and lifestyle categories. His designs contributed to the
success of the companies he has worked for, as he accumulated best sellers. Franck is a talented, skilled, and creative footwear Designer and Art Director with a French twist.
– The Shoe Dog


Sole Explorer Online Shoe Design Workshop

Shoe Design Lesson 1
Introduction to shoe design, I will tell you about me and my design itinerary as a designer. We will talk about everything that comes before you even start to think of a design Inspiration.
Questions and answers session.

Shoe Design Lesson 2
How to prepare before sketching footwear
Visualize your shoe design
Shape
Mood boards for shoe design projects

Shoe Design Lesson 3
Footwear design sketching phases, and choosing your tools properly.

Shoe Design Lesson 4
Taping an upper according to your sketch. An important phase of the design of a shoe, especially if it is a complicated one. Preparing to present your sketch.

Shoe Design Lesson 5
Working on all views of your shoe design. We will go over what is necessary to achieve all views of the design in preparation of footwear technical specs.

Shoe Design Lesson 6
Rendering your shoe design. You may need to render your sneaker design to be ready to show your client or your team the final version of your shoe design. I will show you a simple way to render your designs without spending too much time on photoshop. A technic I developed by myself.

Shoe Design Lesson 7
Footwear Technical specs. All you need to know to prepare the tech specs ready for factory.

Shoe Design Lesson 8
Design Studio – Attitude at work – How to work with your team and how to overcome frustrations that may comes with designing and working with different departments within a company.

Shoe Design Lesson 9
Questions and answers session. After having discussed and participated in all 9 lessons, you will have questions. This final session is to make sure you understood the lessons and answering any questions you may still have on any of the topics that I went over during the time of the courses.

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How to Make a Shoe Production Specification

How to make a running Shoe Spec Sheet

How to Make a shoe production specificationLet’s learn how to make a real factory ready shoe production specification sheet.  Now that you have your shoe design finished, it’s time to write a detailed specification sheet.  The footwear specific specification sheet or simply “spec” sheet does a few things.
#1.  The Spec tells the shoe factory the name of each part of your design.
#2.  The Spec sheet details what each shoe part is made of.
#3.  It tells the shoe factory what color every part is.
#4.  It tells who supplies each material to the shoe factory.
The shoe specification sheet is also your contract with the factory.   The spec sheet tells them exactly what you want for all the internal components and answers questions about what should be inside the shoe.
A detailed specification sheet is absolutely critical to your success. If you leave line items open with no detail, the factory will choose whatever they have inside the factory for these parts. This may be good or be bad, but you will get an unexpected result. We also use the spec sheet to check the new samples that come in from the factory. It’s important to review each sample with the spec sheet to make sure the factory followed the specification sheet. It’s good to highlight differences and ask the factory why they deviated from the spec sheet. Maybe they have a suggestion that’s better than what you chose?  In many cases, the factory developer or pattern maker will substitute with a material that they have on hand, and it may work better than your original specification.

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Shoe Specification Material Maps:

How make a shoe SpecI make a material map when I’m specifying a new shoe the factory hasn’t seen before.  It’s important for the shoe factory to know the terminology we are using.   Take a black-and-white drawing and give each piece a number, while making sure the numbers on your spec sheet match the drawings.  This takes just a few minutes and can save you the hassle of a simple mistake.Spec-Sheet How to Make a Shoe Production Specification

Shoe Specification Sheet Header:

learn how to make running shoesThe specification sheet header contains lots of key information the factory will need to make the samples. Some key parts are the factory name/address, last number, model name, outsole code, and size run information. This is the basic information that pattern makers will need to make your pattern on the correct lasts and make sure your upper design is attached to the correct sole unit.

Filling in the Footwear Specification Sheet:

The bulk of the information on the footwear spec sheet will include the names of the components and then what material you specified for each component.  For a shoe vamp you may spec the following:
Spec-Sheet Item description colors running shoe
1.2- to 1.4mm Low nap Suede leather    Color: 456C  Supplier: Wolverine
or a synthetic  leather may be like this:
1.2mm PU  Duratec (WR) Emboss#BBQ    Color: Black  Supplier Nan-ya
When detailing the shoe materials, you will list the name, the manufacturer, and the code number or swatch book.  Depending on the material, you will list the thickness of the material, emboss pattern, and backing material.

Shoe Specification for the Upper Components:

Spec-Sheet Upper parts
I like to break up the components of the shoe into several sections. The first being the upper components of the shoe, where I personally like to start with the front of the shoe and work backward. Then I list the inside lining components and reinforcing components, all the pieces that you can’t see inside the shoe like the vamp lining, collar lining, etc…  In this section, you can also list things like the glue, collar foam density and thickness, and the thread type you want to use on your shoe.

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Create a spec step by step .
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Shoe Specification for the Outsole Unit:

Spec-Sheet -Outsole_parts running shoe soleThe next section would call out the footwear outsole unit components. You are going to list the rubber parts, color, and other details like the logo. You can also spec the rubber hardness, specific gravity, and other characteristics like non-skid. Also list the midsole if it’s molded or die cut with its density, color, and any other parts.

Shoe Packing:

SPec-Sheet-Packing-Box shoe specification sheetThe final section of the spec sheet should list any of the items that are not necessarily part of the shoe but are still part of the package. Examples of these could be the cardboard box, tissue paper, tags, any stuffing, extra shoelaces, keychains, or a users manual in a plastic bag. Anything like that should be included in the final section.

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Over 4 1/2 hours of video instruction.
In-depth study of leather, textiles, synthetics and plastics.
Material Design Guide Text Book included.

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Is my shoe design ready for production?

Is my shoe design ready for production?

The answer is “NO!”  Your shoe design is NOT ready for production. Once you have a beautiful shoe design on paper it’s time to think about the details needed to start the DEVELOPMENT process for your shoe.

Shoe Design vs. Shoe Development

Shoe development is the transformation of your drawings into a real specification the factory will use to make your design. There are many questions you need to answer to complete your design. These are the extra details that don’t show in a shoe design drawing but will define the real character of your shoe. The shoe design details will determine the price of your shoe. The same design can be made for $79.00 retail or $159.00 retail depending on the material specifications. The material questions would generally be asked before the shoes are designed, and often they are answered by the (PLM) product line manager, not the designer.

Shoe Design Questions

1.  Do I want my shoe design to be Sleek or Puffy?
The thickness of the collar foam and tongue foam can be 10mm, 30mm, or more. The padding for your shoe can be zero for a super sleek look.
shutterstock_268421969shutterstock_285763910

 

2.  Do I want my shoes to be stiff, crisp, and refined or designed to be soft, flexible, and casual? The shoes can be board lasted for a firm feel or Strobel lasted for flexibility.  Firm midsole 55˚ EVA foam or cushy soft 35˚foam? The upper reinforcement can be thin and soft or firm and thick. The heel counter and toe counters can be firm 2mm molded Syrlin, softer non-woven, or nothing.
shutterstock_320413043
shutterstock_262444664

 

3. Do I want my shoe to break-in and show wear? Plastic-coated action leather will keep your sneakers white or black forever, a waxy pull-up leather will show creases and scuffs.  Smooth leather or textured leather? Washed canvas or waxed?  Natural or synthetic-looking materials?

4. Do I want my shoe to be ultra-light? The outsole can be an all EVA foam with no rubber but at the cost of durability.

5. Is my shoe a functional sporting shoe or a fashion shoe? These are built differently!
A casual shoe may lack support and fit loosely while a performance shoe must fit well and be supportive.

6. How much do I want this shoe to cost? Suede leather or action leather (fake full grain) costs US$1.20 per square foot, nu-buck leather can cost $3.00 per sq/ft, and fancy full grain leather costs $4.00 to $10.00 per sq/ft. or more depending on grade, thickness, and quality.

7.  Do I want my shoe to have a fabric lining inside or leather? Smooth Lycra or terry cloth for a sporty gripping feel?

8.  Depending on the cost of the shoe, I need to consider the footbed type. Die cut EVA, or PU foam? Lightweight molded EVA footbeds are heavier but very plush. There are many options for footbed designs, single layer to triple density with gel, or die-cut EVA with a latex wedge. Prices range from US$.50 for a simple EVA die-cut to over $4.00 for a molded PU footbed with plastic inserts.

If you can answer these questions in detail your design can really come to life!

Shoe Material Design Guide

Footwear material selection.

We have written an entire book dedicated to footwear materials. Each chapter covers a specific shoe material type. You will learn how each material is made, the options available, and how to specify the material correctly. We have information on shoe leather, textiles, synthetics, shoelaces, glue, reinforcements, hardware, logos, midsoles, outsoles, and more!

We have included annotated cross-sections of over 30 different shoe types. You can see exactly how each material is used inside real production shoes. Look inside basketball shoes, running shoes, track spikes, hiking boots, work boots, high heels, cowboy boots, and many more!  Check it out!

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The Future of Footwear Design: F.I.T. with Romans CAD

www.romans-cad.com

For shoe designers and developers, the future of footwear development will be driven by F.I.T., Footwear Information Technology. The next generation of shoe design and development software is taking shape in the newest version of RCS, Romans CAD software. Advanced Footwear Information Technology is the very heart of the Romans CAD software.

What is Footwear Information Technology?

Footwear Information Technology, or FIT, is a suite of design and development tools that allow the entire process of footwear creation to flow seamlessly from pen to production as quickly as possible. The Romans CAD software tools create an environment where the designers’ 3D creative work feeds directly into 2D pattern cutting, costing, and production management modules. This system presents the 3D last, 2D pattern, and pre-costing information directly to the production partner.

With the Romans CAD 3D design spaces and unique material library technology, the designer can see the product rendering and cost change in real time. The principle of FAST FASHION is the key to success in the modern footwear marketplace.

FAST FASHION will revolutionize footwear development

The traditional design, development, pre-production, sales, and production cycle can take 22 months! With a modern CAD system like RCS equipped with Footwear Information Technology tools, this 22-month cycle can be drastically reduced. The designer can create a shoe, estimate the cost, and show a full-color 3D printed model in days instead of weeks. The entire cycle can be cut from 22 months to 6 months or less!

How does it work?

The Romans CAD software suite of tools starts with the RCS 3D last development tool. This 3D last data allows the designer’s simple sketch to be converted directly into useful pattern data. RCS 3D last development tools support 3D last creation, scanned 3D and 2D data imports, and most critically, accurate computer grading.

3D Design Tools

The Romans CAD 3D design tools allow designers to work quickly and create designs in real time in a 3D environment. Importing tools allow hand sketches to be built in 3D without years of CAD training. These powerful tools allow the designer to create full-color 3D renderings and 3D prints for internal samples review or sales calls.

2D Design Tools

The Romans CAD 2D design system pulls the 3D design data directly into a suite of costing and production cutting tools. Costing, grading, and cutting can be completed in hours instead of days.

RCS Data Management

The RCS data management PDM tool is where FAST FASHION becomes a reality. These product line management tools store all the design and product data in one system. This data is organized and accessible to the designer, developer, product line manager, business managers, and even overseas production staff.

Learn more

Learn more about Romans CAD Software 

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Europe shipping Price cut!

40% off Shipping to Europe & UK

The Shoemakers Academy.com is pleased to announce reduced book and pro-pack shipping to Europe and the UK. Our publisher is now offering direct shipping from printing plants in Europe!  At the Shoemakers Academy.com our goal is help educate shoemakers not profit off shipping charges.
We are passing the shipping reduction directly to you!  

Shipping cut from $22.50 to $12.00

Order directly from Shoemakers Academy.com or Amazon

Amazon UK 

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How to Draw Shoes

You can draw shoes

Learn to draw shoes!

You can draw shoes
How to draw shoes -how to design shoes for Nike

To be a shoe designer for Nike or any other shoes company you must know how to draw shoes!  There is no right way or wrong way to draw shoe designs. Every shoe designer will have a different way to put the shoe design down on paper. The goal of a shoe drawing is to communicate your idea for how the shoe will look or work.
As a shoe designer, your drawings can fulfill different purposes. Is it a styling drawing for a high fashion shoe? This drawing would be all about the colors and material with little attention to the exact proportion or construction details.
If you are working on a high-tech running shoe, outdoor shoe, sneaker or skate shoe, your drawing will need to be more accurate to describe the technical details. An accurate, well-proportioned shoe drawing,  can save you and your pattern maker some future headaches.

Learn how to design shoes!

We are in the modern computer age but even today most shoe designers will start with a pen and pencil. I have found a small stack of thin 8.5″ by 11″ paper is a great place to start. Thin paper, so you can see your underlay and a small metal clip to hold the sheets together as you sketch. Whatever pencil you like, I like to use both wooden and mechanical depending on what I’m doing.  I will often start with the mechanical pencil to draw lighter lines, then darken in the shoe design with the fat, wooden pencil, once I’m more confident with the design.

You may also want a set of French curves to make flowing smooth lines, and a circle or oval template for other details such as eyelets or logos. You can make a template of your company’s logo to speed up sketching.

The basic tools to help speed up your shoe drawing work how to draw shoes How to design shoes
The basic tools to help speed up your shoe drawing work

How to design sneakers

Setting aside the fashion shoe drawing style, I want to show you how to draw a more technical shoe.    First, you need to start with a well-proportioned side profile. Go online, grab a magazine or catalog, measure or eyeball a shoe you have on hand. Use your phone camera or whatever camera you have to get a good side profile. Many times I’ve seen a young designer show a great looking, dynamic drawing,  that looks nothing like a real shoe. How sad they are when the samples come back and they look nothing like that fantastic drawing.

How to sketch shoes

I take my side profile and clip it into my drawing pad under the first page then go to work. At this point, go fast,  break the design down into parts if it helps you: toe cap, side panel, eyestay, heel counter.  Each page should take just 5 minutes. I will darken in the parts I like, then pull a page from the bottom of the stack and draw in new ideas for the parts I do not like.  In an hour you can make 10 pages, lay them out, then recombine the elements you like again.

 

From here I will make one drawing, darken the lines, then take a photo or scan it to pull the lines into Adobe Illustrator. Adobe Illustrator is the drawing program of choice. Once you have the drawing converted into a live vector format it’s easy to adjust lines, pull, bend, and tweak outsole lines.

Add colors, textures, and logo details to make your shoes come to life.

DIY you can draw shoes How To Make SneakersDo you want to learn how to design shoes like Nike?  Do you want to design fashion shoes or tennis shoes?
You can learn more shoe drawing tips and techniques in our book How Shoes are Made

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Shoe Design School & Outdoor Product Design

Shoe Design School

Shoe Design School & Outdoor Product Design

Shoe Design SchoolDo you want to be a shoe designer or work for an outdoor products company?  There is now a college program exclusively for outdoor gear design and development,  including shoe design school courses.

The first hands-on college degree program in Outdoor Product Design and Development is deep into its third year at Utah State University in Logan, Utah. This one-of-a-kind program is training our future designers, techies, and gear-heads for successful careers in the outdoor industry. According to Chase Anderson, the Development officer at the university, “We already have students interning for Patagonia, Helly Hansen, Browning, Klim, Columbia Sportswear, Altra Footwear, and many others.”

Sneaker Factory.net is proud to donate our books How Shoes are Made, How to Start Your Own Shoe Company and the Shoe Material Design Guide to be a part of the school’s design library.  We hope the shoe design students and professors will find our books a valuable resource.  Let us know if could use our materials for your shoe design classes.

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Foam for Making Shoes

What is the right foam for shoes?

what is EVA

There are many types of foam used to make shoes. We are going to review the foam found in the uppers and outsoles of shoes.

First, what is foam? Foam is a soft plastic that is filled with air bubbles. The properties of different foams are created by using different types of plastic, controlling the size, and controlling the character of the air bubbles.

Generally, foam is divided into two types; “Open Cell” and “Closed Cell” foam. Each foam’s density, compression set, resistance, and breathability are important attributes to understand when selecting foam for your shoes.

Density and Compression Set

Density or Durometer is simply how firm or stiff the foam is. For EVA foam, a density of 25″C” is okay for upper padding but way too soft for the midsole.

Compression set resistance is simply the foam’s ability to bounce back after it’s compressed. A foam with a poor compression set will be crushed flat after just a few days.

Open Cell Foam:

open cell foam for shoes shutterstock_179846381-Cropped
Open cell foam is exactly what it sounds like! The plastic compound that makes up the foam cells is open, so air and water are free to enter and exit the foam just like a sponge.

Open cell foam is generally soft and can be made from Polyurethane plastic. This type of foam is commonly known as “KF” or “KFF” foam. This foam is available in different densities and in almost any thickness and color. This foam is used in the tongues and collars of shoes. Thin sheets of PU foam are used to back fabric in most shoe uppers. The PU foam allows the stitches to sink in and gives mesh some extra support while reducing wrinkles.

Reticulated foam for shoes

Closed Cell Foam:

Closed cell foam is exactly that; the individual cells are closed or sealed, not allowing the foam’s internal gas to escape.

Closed cell foam is generally denser than open cell foam. The stretchability and hardness of the plastic material, combined with the size of the cells, determines the density of the foam. Midsoles of shoes are all made from closed cell foam. (midsole foam is covered further in our article Outsole Design.) The most common closed cell foams include EVA (ethyl vinyl acetate), PE (Polyethylene), SBR (Styrene butadiene rubber), PU (Polyurethane), Latex, and Neoprene. Each has its own useful properties and will be explained below. EVA foam is used for backing mesh materials. A 2mm sheet of EVA will make the fabric waterproof. Neoprene and SBR are used when elastic properties are required. Latex is common for collar linings. PE foam is very light, but not so durable, so its use is limited.

How to Pick Shoe Materials

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How to Measure Foam Density:

Measuring the density of very soft foams can be difficult. For soft foam, the density is measured in Lbs Per square foot. Very soft open cell foam is 1.2 Lbs per Sq. Foot. For denser foam, a Durometer tester is needed.

how to measure EVA harnessAn Asker “C” scale Durometer tester is used to test the hardness of any foam components in your shoe. The Durometer tester will give you a reading of the density of the material. Try to test in flat spots and take several readings for each shoe part you are checking. For foam, try to cut the parts so you can test the center of the foam. EVA foam skin may give you a harder reading. A standard EVA midsole may be  55˚, a soft footbed 35˚. You can see the testing problem on the bottom is larger for softer foam.

Durometer SHore A Tester- Very important for shoe testingWhen testing the hardness of rubber and plastic shoe parts you need a Shore scale “A” Durometer tester. The Durometer tester’s bottom measuring pin is simply pressed against the material. The Durometer tester will give you a reading of the density of the material. Try to test in flat spots and take several readings for each shoe part you are checking. You can see the testing problem is very small.

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Common Foam in Shoes:

EVA (ethyl vinyl acetate): The most common midsole material for sports shoes. EVA is lightweight, durable, easy to form, and resists compression set. EVA can be hot pressed, cold pressed, die cut, injected, and machined to make midsoles or inserts. Available in a wide range of densities and formulations, EVA can be soft and flexible or rock hard and stiff and be made in almost any color. It can be found in all different styles of shoes. EVA is also used to make footbeds, padded Stroble socks, and is often laminated as a fabric backing.

Closed cell PU (Polyurethane):  Also a common foam for shoes. PU foam is “blown” into molds. The liquid compound expands and foam air cells fill the molds. PU foams are used to make durable midsoles for hiking boots and can be made into entire sole units, tread, and midsole all in one. Many women’s fashion shoe high heel outsoles are made from high-density PU. Very soft PU is used for footbeds due to its resistance to compression set.

PE (Polyethylene): Expanded into sheets, PE foam is easily die cut and laminated. Parts are then pressed into shape for internal pads and tongues. Due to its weakness in compression set, PE foam is not used underfoot, but
PE foam is closed cell and waterproof.

Other common foams for shoes:

SBR (Styrene butadiene rubber): A very soft foam, often laminated between two layers of fabric. SBR is closed cell and is used to make parts waterproof. SBR foam is often used as a lightweight replacement for Neoprene rubber but is not as stretchable.

Open Cell PU (Polyurethane): This may be the most common foam used in sports shoe footwear construction. This PU foam is open cell so you must be careful that it does not absorb the glue. Thin layers of PU are laminated to fabric to provide backing substance. PU foam is also used to make tongue foam and collar foam. Due to its softness, open-cell PU foam cannot be used underfoot.

Latex Rubber foam: Latex foam is easily formed into complex shapes in open-top molds. Latex is used for upper padding but not as a midsole material. High-density latex foam sheets are often used to make die cut footbeds.

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