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How to Make Shoe Cutting Dies

shoe cuttings die

Making cuttinges for shoes

cutting dies leather cutting dies
sneaker Cutting dies
shoe making equipment

Mass production of footwear requires cutting every type of shoe material. Shoe leather, fabric, foam, and reinforcing materials must all be cut into the shoe pattern shapes. While there are many new technologies for cutting shoe materials such as a laser, water jet, and CNC drag knife; the steel rule cutting die is still the most common for footwear production.

 

Shoe parts cutting dies

 
Photo of steel for cutting dies

Used to cut out shoe parts, these steel cutting dies look just like cookie cutters. Each die is made of sharpened rule steel then coated with rust proof paint and marked with the shoe size and model number. Making a shoe requires hundreds of dies. One die for each part, for every size of a shoe. For high volume shoe production, the shoe factory may need many sets of cutting dies.

 

Making footwear cutting dies

Making footwear cutting die
leather cutting dies

The cutting die maker starts with the cut paper pattern templates of the shoe pattern. The worker will then bend the rule steel into shape using the paper pattern as a guide.

 

The worker uses a special bench that will help bend the metal. The bench has a foot-operated anvil that moves the tool head to make the bends. A skilled worker can make each cutting die outline in just a few minutes.

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shoe pattern size marks How to make shoe cutting dies
leather cutting dies

Once the outline is made, the worker will add the shoe size marks to the edge with notches. The raw ends of the dies are then welded together. Afterwards, any bracing bars or plates are welded on.

 

Pins for perforations are also added to the cutting dies. Once the die is fully assembled a worker will test it to make sure the cutting surface is aligned flat and level.

 
footwear cutting dies
Cutting dies getting a coat of paint

The final operations to make the shoe cutting dies include coating it with rust proof paint and a final check to make sure the cutting edge is very sharp. While there are many operations required to make shoe cuttings dies the production is fast, the materials and labor are relatively inexpensive. For small orders, a cutting die fee may be charged by the shoe factory, but usually, the cost of the cutting dies are accounted for the LOP (labor, overhead and profit) charges.

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Tour a shoe cutting die factory in China

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How Much Does it Cost to Make A Big Baller Brand ZO2 Prime Sneaker?

Lonzo Ball Prime Big Baller Brand Z02

Is Lonzo Ball’s $495 Sneaker worth it?

Lonzo Ball Prime Big Baller Brand Prime: Z02
Is this really a $495 dollar shoe?

The upstart shoe company Big Baller Brand™ is making a big splash with its release of Lonzo Ball’s sneaker. The ZO2 Prime signature basketball shoe is priced at $495.00. Meanwhile, the company’s founder, LaVar Ball, has become a controversial figure in the sports marketing world with his BILLION dollar contract demands. We are going to take a closer look at the new shoe.
Love it or hate it, let’s see if the  ZO2 Prime’s $495 price tag is justified by the design.

The Big Baller Brand ZO2 Prime: Price $495.00

Before we dive into the Big Baller Brand design, let’s do a quick breakdown on a basic sneaker costing model. If Nike™ released a $495 shoe into the normal retail distribution chain, the retail store would earn $250 of the $495 selling price. This $250 is a normal wholesale price for a $495.00 shoe. If you keep working the numbers backward you can assume $1.50 for shipping, 20% for import duty, and the industry standard margin of 50%. Thus, a $250 wholesale cost would mean the shoe costs Nike about $90.00 to produce. If you look at the $695.00 price of the larger sizes (sizes 14 and 15) you can figure a factory price of $130.00.
Does the Big Baller Brand  ZO2 Prime really cost $90 to produce in the factory?  Maybe not.
Let’s look at a very comparable shoe, the Nike Kobe 11. The Nike Kobe 11 retails for $159.00. If we follow the same logic working the price backward, we calculate a factory price of around $30.00 USD. Nike has an army of footwear technicians and costing engineers, so I have no doubt they can build and buy a comparable shoe at a cost lower than any upstart brand.
Now, considering the ZO2 Prime is being sold directly from the Big Baller Brand’s website, this upstart brand is most likely guilty of the price gouging that Nike is often accused of. If the ZO2 Prime really does cost $90.00 to produce, and another $25.00 to ship into the USA, then Big Baller brand is making over $350.00 per pair.

Nike Kobe 11 retails for $159.00
Nike Kobe 11, $159.00: FOB$ 30?

Lonzo Ball Big Baller Brand Z02 Prime
BBB ZO2 Prime $495.00: FOB$ 90?

The Design of Big Baller ZO2 Prime VS Kobe

The Design of Big Baller ZO2 Prime VS KobeLet’s look at the design of these two shoes. Is there really is a justification for the price difference? The material specification for the Z02 Prime is listed as microfiber with Python emboss. This type of PU synthetic material ranges in price from $8.00 USD to $15.00 USD per yard. The amount required to make a low cut shoe will cost between $2.00 to $4.00 USD. This PU material is not particularly exotic. The Nike shoes’ 4D flyknit upper with TPU welds will cost about the same if not a little more. Both shoes have welded eye stays, but the Nike has more welding on the upper.
 Lonzo Ball’s Big Baller ZO2 Prime really a $495.00 Shoe?
Both shoes have textile linings. There is nothing special in either case. Looking at the crease in the foam at the heel, I do think the Z02 Prime may be a little over-stuffed. This is a shortcoming I would not expect to see in a $495 shoe, or even a $150 or $100 shoe.
 Lonzo Ball’s Big Baller ZO2 Prime really a $495.00 Shoe?The rubber outsole designs are VERY similar. Single color crystal rubber with no logo embellishments. Thus, neither is exotic or expensive to make.
I will be a bit critical of the midsole design of the Big Baller Z02 Prime. The texture pattern is designed to resemble the Adidas™ Boost foam. The real material is made by BASF™. The distinctive BASF material bubble pattern is inherent to how the foam beads are expanded into the mold. The Z02 Prime fakes this look, but you can see clean, straight lines, on the upper edge of the midsole.  If this were the actual BASF™ Boost foam material the bubble texture would extend over the entire midsole.

Is Lonzo Ball’s Big Baller ZO2 Prime really a $495.00 Shoe?

If you are buying the hype and are a super fan of Lonzo Ball….then maybe. Looking at the build price of the shoe, I would say, “No way.” The shoe looks to have the same, if not a lower, build price as the Nike Kobe 11. I would also say that Big Ball Brand is way out of their league if they think they can go head to head with Nike’s marketing and shoe making machine. Furthermore, while the two shoe designs may look similar, there is no doubt that the quality and fit of the Nike shoe will be superior.
I do appreciate the idea of new brands launching into a very competitive market. Unfortunately, the exorbitant price tag for what looks like a very conventional shoe may have people asking, “What is the hype really worth?”
Come November, when the Z02 Prime hits retail, we are going to find out.

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Shoe Designer Interview : Franck Boistel

How to be a shoe designer

Professional shoe designer Shoe Designer Interview: Franck Boistel

Do you want to hear how a top gun professional shoe designer got his start? I sat down with my good friend Franck Boistel to talk about his work and to get his advice for young shoe designers looking to get started.

The shoe dog: Hey Franck, thanks for having me over! Can you give us a short bio?
Franck: I come from a family of 3 brothers, my Dad was in the French army and my mom was an opera singer.

The shoe dog: Where were you born?
Franck: I was born in Nantes, on the west coast of France. I lived there until 1997 then moved to the USA.

The shoe dog: Did you go to school to be a shoe designer? Where did you go to school?
Franck: I went to graphic design school for 3 years. I was about 19 and once I finished school I started in advertising in Nantes.

The shoe dog: What was your first shoe design job and how did you get it?
Franck: During my 3 years at school we were asked to do internships and I did mine in an advertising agency in Nantes called at Luour Med. It was a very good agency at the time.

After school they took me in for a few months but then they told me that someone 60k away in a town called Chalet was looking for a graphic designer, so I applied for the job, met the owner, and I started my first job ever there. Chalet is still known today at the fashion capital of France for clothing, footwear, everything!  All the clients were fashion companies.

In 1997, I was visiting California and I met the founder of Etnies, Pierre Andre. He was looking at my marketing stuff and asked me if I could design shoes. I said I would try it! I went to the store and bought some papers and pencils, then went back to my hotel. I was feeling sick at the time, so I sat in the hotel, ate a bag of oranges, and drew shoes over the weekend. When I went back to Etnies on Monday and showed my designs they asked me to start.  I was a shoe designer. Just like that!

The shoe dog: At Etnies, where you and I worked together, we would get the shoe design and the directive that the shoe needs to be on the market for $75. We would take the drawing and figure out materials, specifications, how to match the target price, do the pricing and the import duty… things that are not that much fun but important to running the business.

Franck: Yes! shoe design is not a one-man show, it is teamwork. It takes many people working on a design and you can’t really claim it as yours. It’s important to know that as a designer you work with product managers, product developers, pro-riders, marketing, salespeople. They are all giving you what needs to be done and you are a little magician to put all those pieces together and come up with something, but you are not alone, you have a team of people around you.

I’m really proud of all the designs I worked on with Es footwear: Virial, Tribal, Scheme. The shoe dog: Tell us about your shoe design accomplishments?
Franck: I’m really proud of all the designs I worked on with Es footwear: Varial, Tribo, Scheme. There was an era, 1999/2000, where we were blessed with favorable economics, we were exploding the market, we were researching the ideal skateboard shoe and those times were blessed with opportunities, explorations and that’s probably where I did my best work as far as going totally out of the box. So, I’m proud of all the things I designed for Es but also for Etnies, Emerica and 32 snowboard boots. With 32 we launched the whole lightweight process and product and look where 32 is now…they continued that lightweight process and 32 boots are amazing, probably the best on the market, so I’m pretty proud of that. The best sellers.

Marc Johnson, Ed Templeton, Erik Ellington, Bob BurnquistI designed skateboarding footwear for all the pro riders there: Marc Johnson, Ed Templeton, Erik Ellington, Bob Burnquist…I worked on the Koston 2 for Eric Kosten. Eric was a designer and he used to come up with 80% of the design on his own. We helped him to make up his vision. The Koston 2, 3, 4 are really my collaboration with Eric. Some of the riders need more help with their designs, like Arto Saari. I had a bunch of designs to put on the line and Arto picked one and that became a huge hit. It’s surprising. Some guys come to us with half a vision so we need to read their mind and understand what they need and what they want. On the technical side it’s easy but as far as styling it’s another ballgame so we have to pull all the information together and come up with something they are going to like. That’s the design part of it and when the shoe comes back they have to test it and sometimes they may not like the aesthetic but they like how the shoe performs and vice versa.

The shoe dog: I would tell the listeners to go look at the history of Es. The shoes from the mid-2000’s are amazing and there is nothing like that available now. It’s a very different time.  For shoe designers, it’s a worthwhile study.

The shoe dog: Do you have any shoe design fails?
Franck:  During the blessed times that we were designing freely without any restraints, just exploring, there were also some pretty bad messed up things. We were so free that we came up with really bad stuff but surprisingly those shoes that I don’t like, today I recognize as classics and I don’t know what to think. There was some commercial failure because the shoes we put on the market were too ahead of the times and it didn’t work, or the salespeople didn’t put the effort in to sell it because they didn’t believe in it, but it doesn’t mean the shoes were bad. In 2002/3 we started to realize that we needed to tune it down a little bit and make shoes at a more affordable price. We were starting to design more simple shoes and the salespeople were coming to us and saying, “No, no, what are you doing?” “We need another product like the Scheme.” They live in the moment and we (designers) live 2 years ahead, they didn’t see what was coming and it came. The trends went back to simple and price-conscious footwear and we saw that and we tried to put it in the line but it didn’t work at the moment we needed it to. It’s a group failure which happens all the time.

The shoe dog:  Do you have any advice for students?
Franck: I think when you start designing shoes for a company you have to get rid of the ego because the ego is not going to help you. Footwear design is teamwork and that’s very important to understand.  When you approach a company and when you start designing a product that works and makes money, don’t get a big head – that will lead you nowhere. Keep your head low, keep cranking, do your best work and best designs. I have met designers and I have been confronted with my ego and that doesn’t work at all. Design is teamwork, you work with several teams.

The shoe dog: Do you have any advice for designers on the job?
Franck: Students, don’t focus too much on the sketching…it’s good, you need to know how to sketch but you need to “think design” and think about your product before you get into sketching and that’s something that I learned through the years. I don’t make tons and tons of sketches before I get something. I think about my design for a couple of weeks, it builds in my head, and I can basically see my design before I sketch it and when I sketch it’s because it’s pretty much ready. When you think about the design, don’t just think about the aesthetic, think about the function and all aspects of the product you have to design and the sketching is just a tool for you to formalize what you’ve seen in your head. Sketching is just the communication part of it. Don’t base your design just on sketching. I’ve seen so many beautiful sketches but there’s nothing original in the sketches, they don’t bring anything new to the table. I’m telling you – lots of students with beautiful sketchbooks with spiders and tons of sketches but just nothing new because they keep sketching but they don’t “see it.”

The shoe dog: New designs you like?  Anything? Shoes?
Franck: I’ve been wearing Clae footwear and I really like them. The leather is amazing, the comfort is amazing, the style is pure and simplified and there are some really good lines. Everything on the shoe is great – like the footbed is comfy, it’s like buttery footwear. I like Clae footwear. Recently I’ve been wearing the NMD’s from Adidas and Ultra Boost, they are fricken amazing and I’m amazed by the amount of technology. I was fortunate to work at the Adidas factory in China and I’ve seen how the product is made and how the Yeezy’s are made and it’s just mindblowing how much thinking goes into the product. I’ve been wearing it to try it and it’s just mindblowing, the comfort is amazing, the styling is questionable, you may like it or don’t like it. I like those a lot and Adidas has been introducing a new generation of designs and forcing us to go into a new direction. Next, I like the Nike Huarache sandal that they did, very nice. I like Alexander Wang from Adidas.

The shoe dog: New designs you hate?  Anything? Shoes?
Franck: There’s a shoe that just launched a couple of days ago, the Nike Vapor Max, it has a crazy airbag midsole and the upper is very simple and I just don’t think it is aesthetically very pleasing. I don’t like the overall look and don’t think it’s the right direction. For example, the NMD’s and Ultra Boost by Adidas are sexy looking.

The shoe dog: It reminds me of the Reebok DMX from back in the day.
Franck: It’s very predictable but not in a good way. I think it’s a step back. It may feel good but it’s unappealing to me.
The shoe dog: I’m not sure I like that one either.

The shoe dog: Best Air Jordan ever, #1 or #3?
Franck: #1, I’ll tell you why. The #1 you can wear for centuries, it will never go out of style and you can wear it all the time. Beautiful design. It’s timeless.

The shoe dog: Worst shoe ever, Air Jordan 13 or The Kobe Two?
Franck: Kobe Two!  I kinda like the Air Jordan 13 but the Kobe Two, no. I understand the concept behind it but it should have stayed a concept.
The shoe dog: A lot of big shoemaking mistakes never see the light of day but that one did. Should have stayed on paper.

The shoe dog: What shoe design projects are you working on now?
Franck: I’m working for Five Ten. A climbing shoe company that was established 30 years ago. Adidas bought them in 2011. They have been doing climbing shoes, outdoor shoes, and mountain biking shoes. I am the lead footwear designer for this company and I manage a team of two designers and we have been working on really interesting technical stuff like a canyoneering shoe.

A canyoneering shoe has to have the features of a climbing shoe as far as the grip on the outsole, gripping rocks a certain way, and the outsole has to let water flow in and out without any sand entering. When you go canyoneering you have that ultra-fine sand that gets in your shoe and builds up inside so we needed to find a way for the water to come in and the sand to stay out. So, a combination of materials and layers that work towards that. The shoe looks really nice and works well. It has been tested recently in Zion Canyon and the response has been amazing.

I’m working on an outdoor hiking and climbing shoe. A pure hiking shoe but with features so you can climb and boulder in that shoe if you need to. I’ve also been working on mountain biking cleatless shoes. That’s something I never did before and I had to fix the previous work of a designer and I had to really put my head down on that and actually successfully design a clipless shoe.

Mountain biking, outdoor, and I also am trying climbing shoes but this is another ballgame, it’s a completely different approach and technology from what I’m used to. The ergonomics are crazy, the materials are crazy, the requirements are crazy! You need to be a climber. It’s a completely separate thing. Of course, anyone can do pretty designs of a climbing shoe but to actually make it work – I’m not there yet. And that’s great because as a designer we keep learning and year to year you tackle challenges and go over obstacles and you make something that you wouldn’t think you could have designed 2 years before.

The shoe dog: Give us a shoe design web link to follow?
Franck: There’s one I check every day, www.highsnobiety.com. They have the best looking shoes coming to the market every day. They post new footwear every day, they are aware in advance of everything that’s going to come out. It’s really cool.

The shoe dog: What shoes are you wearing now?
Franck: I’m always barefoot on weekends. When I work I put on my best shoes, but weekends I’m always barefoot and that’s the best feeling ever.

The shoe dog: Any parting shots?
Franck: Be humble, be great at what you do, keep learning, be curious. That’s the main thing, to be curious and try to travel as much as you can. It refreshes the spirit and the mind and helps you tackle problems differently when you travel. Even short travel. You will come back refreshed and this is key for a designer. Stay open to the world and learn new stuff.

The shoe dog: If you want to see more of Francks shoe design work check out:
FB design  Shoe design portfolio
Chomp on Kicks Shoe designer Interview
Ripped Laces – Ripped Laces Speaks to One of the Most Iconic Shoe Designers in Skateboarding

You can contact Franck on LinkedIn

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How are Nike Shoes Made? Cold Cement Construction

How to design running shoe

The Process of Making Nike Shoes

Most Nike shoes are made by cold cement construction process. Shoe cement is simply PU glue! The PU glue or shoe cement is solvent or water-based. Almost all sports footwear types are cemented shoes.<em> </em>If you want to learn how to design shoes, you need to know this basic shoemaking process. Cold cement is the modern updated style of shoe construction.

Vans and Converse shoes use an old fashion high heat vulcanized shoe construction, while Nike’s cold cement shoe construction allows the use of modern lightweight plastic, foam, and mesh materials due to the low temperatures required for bonding the upper to the shoe sole. Every modern high-performance athletic shoe manufactured by Nike for running, basketball, etc… is made by this cold cement process. Every Air Jordan basketball shoe for the Jordan 1 to the Jordan 30+  is made by the cold cement process. This is how Nike makes all of its performance athletic shoes.

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Cold Cement Shoe Assembly Process:

 How To Make Shoes 如何鞋是由 shoe making process pdfIn the cold cement process, the shoe upper can be prepared with the strobel bottom. For this classic jogger style, the outsole covers the edge upper so a strobel bottom can be used to make the shoe lighter and more flexible.

First, the upper is steamed to soften the materials and the last is inserted and pulled tight. Once the last is tight inside the upper a second lasting machine pulls the heel edge. Once the last is secured inside the upper and temporary shoelaces are pulled tight, the upper is cooled to shrink the upper tight to the last.

The shoe may have a plastic or fabric part installed on top of the tongue to protect the surface from damage and drift during the lasting operations.

While the upper is being lasted the sole unit is being prepared. In this case, the rubber sheet sole is combined with the EVA foam cushioning component cemented inside. This is done in a separate process that’s called stock fitting.

Primer and Cement:

Now that the upper is lasted tightly and the outside unit is complete, the two pieces come together. The rubber sole unit will receive coatings of primer and cement. The outsole will get its own special primer designed for EVA and rubber. The shoe upper is also prepared with its own special primer and cement.

After the contact cement and primer have been completely dried in the heating tunnels, the two pieces are joined together by hand. The skilled worker aligns the upper and outsole together, then places the shoe in a hydraulic press.

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Pressing, cooling, and de-lasting

The shoe will have 3 pressing operations usually all done with one machine. A vertical press, toe and heel press, and side presses. This ensures there is full contact between the upper and outsole. Once the shoe is pressed together it’s often put in the cooling tunnel to set the glue.

After the cooling tunnel, a shoe de-lasting machine is used to push the last out of the shoe without wrinkling the upper.

Now the sneaker is complete. At this point, you can insert the footbed. The footbed may be molded EVA with a fabric cover or flat sheet cut foam. The flat die-cut footbed is usually cemented inside the shoe, while molded footbeds are most often removable.

How to make a nike shoe 如何鞋是由The new sneaker is ready for a final QC inspection, a quick check for any loose threads, cleaning, and packing.

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How Shoes are Made: 2020 Update

How Shoes are Made Books

How Shoes Are Made Download

Originally published in June of 2014, How Shoes are Made, has been continuously corrected, updated, and modified.  With feedback from our readers, reviewers, editors, and friends, we have worked to make this newly updated edition more useful, interesting, and concise.

 

We have made some major updates in formatting and contents. You will find dozens of new footwear photos and new shoe diagrams.  Chapter 3: Making Footwear Patterns, has been completely reworked. I think you will find it much more useful. You will find more information about shoe construction methods, how shoes are designed, how to manufacture shoes, sports shoe construction, parts of a shoe, and parts of a shoe last.

If you have a copy of the original or second edition you will notice that the chapters on importing shoes and starting a new shoe company have been removed. These chapters have been expanded into a completely new book, How to Start a New Shoe Company, which is now available on the SneakerFactory.com website and Amazon.com.  We have put many hours into these improvements and we hope you will enjoy them!

How Shoes are Made book:
Table of Contents

 

Chapter 1 : The shoe Design Process Two types of design briefs Get started drawing shoes

Chapter 1: The Shoe Design Process
Two types of design briefs
Get started drawing shoes
How are shoes designed

 

Chapter 2 : footwear Specification drawings How to make a factory ready specification drawing What to include in a specification

Chapter 2 : Footwear Specification Drawings
How to make a factory-ready specification drawing
What to include in a specification

 

Chapter 3 : Making Footwear Patterns Shoe designer vs pattern maker The pattern maker’s challenge

Chapter 3 : Making Footwear Patterns
Shoe designer vs. pattern maker
The pattern maker’s challenge
How to make a shoe pattern

 

Chapter 4 : Shoe Specification documents Parts of a shoe spec How to detail a spec sheet

Chapter 4 : Shoe Specification Documents
Parts of a shoe spec
How to detail a spec sheet
Sports shoe construction

 

Chapter 5 : Outsole Tooling Design Footwear outsole types Outsole blue prints and tooling development

Chapter 5 : Outsole Tooling Design
Footwear outsole types
Outsole blueprints and tooling development

 

Chapter 6 : Footwear Development Process Footwear sample making Development samples phases

Chapter 6 : Footwear Development Process
Footwear sample making
Development samples phases

 

Chapter 7 : Footwear Pre-Production Production size grade Production cutting equipment

Chapter 7 : Footwear Pre-Production
Production size grade
Production cutting equipment
Lasting methods of footwear

 

Chapter 8 : SHOE Material Preparation Material cutting Logo printing and preparations

Chapter 8 : Shoe Material Preparation
Material cutting
Logo printing and preparations

 

Chapter 9 : Upper Stitching Operations The stitching room Stitching order of operations

Chapter 9 : Upper Stitching Operations
The stitching room
Stitching order of operations
How shoes are made in a factory

 

Chapter 10 : outSOle Rubber Pressing Mixing rubber materials Rubber molds and pressing

Chapter 10 : Outsole Rubber Pressing
Mixing rubber materials
Rubber molds and pressing
How Rubber outsoles are made

 

Chapter 11 : EVA midsole Forming1 What is EVA made of? EVA pressing operations

Chapter 11 : EVA midsole Forming
What is EVA made of? 
EVA pressing operations

 

Chapter 12 : The shoe Assembly Line Cold cement shoe construction Vulcanized shoe construction

Chapter 12 : The Shoe Assembly Line
Cold cement shoe construction
Vulcanized shoe construction
Cementing shoes
Shoemaking equipment

 

Chapter 13 : The Shoe Last Shoe last shapes How lasts are made

Chapter 13 : The Shoe Last
Parts of a shoe last
Shoe last shapes
How lasts are made

 

Chapter 14 : Footwear Costing Where does the money go? Reading a factory cost sheet

Chapter 14 : Footwear Costing
Where does the money go?
Reading a factory cost sheet

 

Chapter 15 : Logo Design for Shoes What is the right logo for your shoe? Shoe logo constructions

Chapter 15 : Logo Design for Shoes
What is the right logo for your shoe?
Shoe logo constructions

 

Chapter 16 :Leather for Shoes Leather basics Common leather for shoes

Chapter 16 : Leather for Shoes
Leather basics
Common leather for shoes

 

Chapter 17 : Textiles for Shoes Fabric weaves Backing and surface treatments

Chapter 17 : Textiles for Shoes
Fabric weaves
Backing and surface treatments

 

Chapter 18 : Synthetics for Shoes Synthetic types Application on shoes

Chapter 18 : Synthetics for Shoes
Synthetic types
Application on shoes

 

Chapter 19 : Foam for Shoes Foam types, open vs closed Foam compounds, densities and use in shoes

Chapter 19 : Foam for Shoes
Foam types, open vs closed
Foam compounds, densities and use in shoes

 

Chapter 20 : Know Your Footbeds Footbed parts Material types for shoes

Chapter 20 : Know Your Footbeds

Footbed parts
Material types for shoes

 

Chapter 21 : Footwear Material Suppliers Working with material suppliers List of top shoe material suppliers

Chapter 21 : Footwear Material Suppliers
Working with material suppliers
List of top shoe material suppliers

 

Chapter 22 : Shoe Designers Tools The Pantone™ color system Common tools of the trade

Chapter 22 : Shoe Designers Tools
The Pantone™ color system
Common tools of the trade

 

Chapter 23 : Jobs in the Shoe Trades Getting started in the trades There is a job for you

Chapter 23 : Jobs in the Shoe Trades
Getting started in the trades
There is a job for you

 

Chapter 24 : Footwear Quality Control How to grade shoe quality? Standard shoe inspection procedure

Chapter 24 : Footwear Quality Control
How to grade shoe quality?
Standard shoe inspection procedure

 

Chapter 25 : Life at a Shoe Factory Look inside a real factory Working conditions

Chapter 25 : Life at a Shoe Factory
Look inside a real factory
Working conditions

 

Chapter 26 : Shoe Making Dictionary Shoe making terms you should know Shoe parts diagram

Chapter 26 : Shoe Making Dictionary
Shoe making terms you should know
Shoe parts diagram

 

 

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Tour a Factory Producing Handmade Shoes

Tour a custom shoe factory

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Italian Quality Handmade Shoes in China

Custom Shoe Show Room

Custom Made shoes in China Italian High Quality Shoes
Handmade in China

Can high quality handcrafted shoes be made in China? Yes! The modern shoemaking trades have been thriving in China for more than 30 years. Shoemaking  is a mature industry in China and there are thousands of skilled shoemakers with many years of experience.  While China is known for the mass production of millions of glittering sport shoes, the manufacturing of handcrafted fine leather shoes is also well developed.
Handmade custom shoes The typical shoe factory in China will have hundreds, even thousands of workers, but there is a new class of small factories now producing the highest quality custom and semi-custom shoes. On a recent visit to China, I toured the show room of the custom shoe maker Top Owen. Owen, the founder of the brand, learned his trade in mass production of athletic footwear, but then changed course.
Custom Shoe Factory With a desire to create european craftsmanship in China, Owen left his job at a huge shoe factory to build his own micro factory.  Owen hired on a staff of 25 expert shoe makers to operate his new custom shoe factory. After careful study of the highest quality European hand crafted shoes, Owen and his team now offer custom hand crafted footwear for shoe connoisseurs lucky enough to find him.
Owen now has many exotic leathers available for custom “one off” creations including ostrich, crocodile, alligator, snake, lizard and others.
Without any advertising or a website, Owen has created a loyal following for his exquisitely made custom shoes. Beyond shoes, Owen offers his customers other leather goods complementary to the footwear. If you would like a wallet, handbag, briefcase, belt or even a leather golf bag custom made to complement your shoes, Top Owen can deliver!
Top Owen offers a wide range of offshore making services and shoe styles.

Designer Series Custom Athletic Shoes:

Custom Made athletic shoes Are you looking for some custom made kicks?  Owen has a section of mock vulc stitch down soles, classic trainer wedge, and classic basketball sole units available.  For around $400 USD you can get your own pattern custom made in full grain leather. For an extra $125 USD you can have a test pattern sent to you for fitting.
Other options include a custom wooden box.

Designer Series Fashion Shoes:

Send Owen a design for dress shoes and his team will create exactly what you want.  You pick the design, last shape, leathers and any extra styling work you desire. Prices start around $400 USD – depending on your material and design requirements. For an extra $125 USD you can have a test pattern sent to you for fitting.
Other options include a custom wooden box.

Full Custom Shoe Service:

Are you looking for a full custom fit? For a 100% hand made last fit just for you?  The full custom program brings the high end European custom made service to you at a fraction of the European price.  Send Owen and his team photographs of your foot and record the critical measurements.  Then, send Owen your design for the dress shoes and his team will create them to your specifications. Once again, you pick the design, last shape, leathers and any extra styling work you desire.
This Full Custom Service includes a lifetime service, warranty, repair and refresh service.
Prices start around $1000 USD – depending on your material and design requirements.

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Handmade Shoes for Men

Handmade Shoes for Men

Handmade Shoes for Men Book Review

Handmade Shoes for Men
Available on Amazon

Handmade Shoes for Men
by Laszlo Vass & Magda Molnar

Hard Cover: 216 Pages Published 2015
What Amazon says: Handmade Shoes for Men elucidates the entire process of creating classic men’s shoes, while the detailed color photographs document every stage of production. It is a worthy introduction, for both the professional and the layman, to the wealth of tradition that is waiting to be discovered in the shoemaker’s workshop.
What The Sneaker Factory Crew has to say:  We really like this book. Handmade shoes for Men is a great read.  The book is well written and we found it very interesting.  Laszlo Vass and Magda Molnar have done a nice job detailing the process for making hand made shoes.  This is the classical ART of shoe making not the heartless mass production of china.  Laszlo Vass is a real shoe maker practicing the highest form of our art.
From measuring feet, to lasts making, to leather tanning, shoe design, cutting, stitching, lasting and finishings this book has it all.  If you are interested the art of Handmade shoes for Men then this is the book for you.
We give this book 5 Stars.   Now Available on Amazon

About the Author

László Vass, born in Budapest in 1946, worked in the Hungarian fashion house of Magyar Divatintezet as a clicker, closer, shoemaker, and designer from 1964 until 1969. In 1970, having gained his professional shoemaking qualification, he joined a private workshop specializing in handmade shoes and ladies’ boots as assistant chief designer and shoemaker. In 1978, Vass founded his own workshop and opened a business in the centrt of Budapest. Since 1988, he and his 20 staff have concentrated on traditional shoemaking. Today, the exquisite quality of the shoes made by the firm of Vass has earned the workshop enormous respect throughout Europe.

  • Hardcover: 216 pages
  • Publisher: h.f.ullmann publishing (February 1, 2013)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 3848003686
  • ISBN-13: 978-3848003686
  • Product Dimensions: 8.7 x 0.8 x 10.2 inches


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The History of Sneakers Poster

A Visual Compendium of Sneakers.

The History of Sneakers Poster

I love this History of sneakers poster!  I have a copy hanging in my own in my design studio. This is poster features a meticulously illustrated collection of the 134 greatest sneakers in human history, starting with the Chuck Taylor way back in 1917, progressing through the styling low-tops of the 60s and 70s, delving deep into the great sneaker explosion of the 1980s, and carrying through the instant classics of the modern day.

This Sneaker history poster has everything from ageless Adidas designs, the many, many permutations of Air Jordans, groundbreaking skate shoes like Vans and monsters from the golden age of Reebok (such as the Shaq Attack and Alien Stomper)   Just $35 bucks at Amazon!
The History of Sneakers
Each print comes packaged in a Pop Chart Lab Test Tube.

Using 100 lb. archival stock certified by The Forest Stewardship Council, this poster is pressed on an offset lithographic press with vegetable-based inks in Long Island City, New York.

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How a Running Shoe is Made

How running shoes are made

How Running Shoes are Made

How running shoes are madeAll running shoes are made by the cold cement construction process. If you want to learn how to design shoes you need to know this basic shoe making process.   Cold cement is the modern updated style of shoe construction.  Due to the low temperatures required for bonding the upper to the shoe sole, it allows the use of modern lightweight plastic, foam and mesh materials.  Every modern high performance running shoe is made by this cold cement process.

Running Shoe Upper Stitching Process:

How Running Shoes are Made-cutting DiesWhat are the best materials for running shoes?  Most running shoes are constructed with breathable knit Polyester or Nylon mesh. Knit fabric allow the material to smoothly follow the last curves.  Running shoe uppers often with PU leather reinforcements.  Pu or synthetic leathers are great for running shoes as they have some stretch and are damaged by water.  The classic running shoe is made from suede with some mesh inserts.  While suede is comfortable and conforming, it’s not weather resistant and it’s very heavy when wet.

How Running Shoes are Made- CuttingThe pattern parts for the shoe are made into steel cutting dies.  A cutting die is required for every part and every size.  Each shoe part is cut from rolls of fabric or from leather hides.  Fabric parts may be layered so many can be cut at the same time.  Leather parts must be cut one by one to avoid having scars or other imperfections in the leather show on the final product.

The factories cutting department cuts all the parts for each running shoe, then gathers the parts into kits.  One kit for each pair of shoes.  After several hundred or even 1000 kits are complete they are passed to the stitching department for assembly.

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The stitching department builds the parts of the running shoe sewing then together, finally closing the shoe and adding the tongue.

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shoe making for beginners pdf, how to make shoes step by step, shoe making kit, how to start making shoes, how to start making your own shoes,

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Running Shoe Production Assembly Process:

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The running shoe upper is prepared with the strobel bottom.  The outsole covers the edge of the upper so a strobel bottom can be used to make the shoe lighter and more flexible.

The running shoe upper is steamed to soften the materials and the last is inserted and pulled tight.   Once the last is tight inside the upper a second lasting machine pulls the heel edge.  Once the last is secured inside the upper, temporary shoes laces are pulled tight, and the upper is cooled which allows the upper to shrink and fit tight to the last.

The shoe may have a plastic or fabric part installed on top of the tongue to protect the surface from damage and drift during the lasting operations.

While the upper is being lasted, the sole unit is being prepared. In this case, a rubber sheet sole is combined with the EVA foam cushioning component cemented inside. This is done in a separate process that’s called stock fitting.

Running shoe midsoles will be made from weight EVA foam.  A thin layer of rubber will allow the EVA to flex, but protect the midsole from wear.

Now that the upper is lasted tightly and the outside unit is compete, the two pieces come together. The rubber sole unit will receive coatings of primer and cement. The outsole will get its own special primer designed for EVA and rubber. The shoe upper is also prepared with its own special primer and cement.

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After the contact cement and primer have been completely dried in the heating tunnels, the two pieces are joined together by hand. A skilled worker aligns the upper and outsole together then places the shoe in a hydraulic press.

The running shoe will have 3 pressing operations, usually all done with one machine: a vertical press, toe and heel press,  and side pressing. This insures full contact between the upper and outsole uit. Once the shoe is pressed together it’s often put in the cooling tunnel to set the glue.

After the cooling tunnel, a shoe de-lasting machine is used to push the last out of the shoe without wrinkling the running shoe upper.

Now the running shoe is complete!  At this point you can insert the footbed.  The footbed may be molded EVA with a fabric cover or flat sheet cut foam.  The flat die-cut footbed is usually cemented inside the shoe, while molded footbeds are most often removable.

The new runner is ready for a final QC inspection – a quick check for any loose threads, cleaning and then packing.

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