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Shoe Quality Inspections: How to Inspect a Shoe

How to inspect a shoe

shoe quality Inspections B grade shoesWarning: After you learn the skills of footwear quality control you will never look at shoes the same way again. Shoe quality inspection is a critical skill for a shoemaker to master, as footwear construction quality is a very important feature of any shoe you may make, buy, or sell. In this article, you will learn the basic process of footwear quality control in the shoemaking industry

Knowing how to run a shoe quality inspection is a critical skill for shoe designers, developers, and product line managers. When a new sample arrives it’s critical to inspect the materials, assembly technique, and workmanship. You must know the correct footwear inspection procedure.

How to check the quality of sneakers in a store

Knowing how to inspect a shoe is also a great skill to have as a shoe buying customer in a store. You don’t need any special tools or lots of time. In just a few seconds you can quality check a new pair of sneakers in a store without damaging the shoe or hassling the store employees. If you see a problem pick a different pair. Here is how to grade and inspect a shoe like a professional.

Definition of Shoe inspection quality “A”, “B”, “C” – Grades

A grade shoes:
Shoes without any functional defects or cosmetic defects that will impair the marketability of the shoe are A grade. These are high-quality shoes, they look good and fit correctly. An A grade must follow the production specifications and match the approved confirmation sample.

B grade shoes:
Shoes without any major functional defects and which will not cause injury to the person wearing the shoes are B grade. B grade shoes may have cosmetic defects, production mistakes, or workmanship issues that cannot be properly repaired. These B grade shoes will be discounted and/or diverted to markets more tolerant of cosmetic defects.

C grade shoes:
C grade shoes have major functional defects that could cause injury to the wearer or major cosmetic defects that cannot be repaired. Shoes are also considered C-grade if they have poor workmanship or material defects that could shorten the normal life expectancy of the shoe, or damage the companies reputation. These shoes should be destroyed.

Shoe quality checklist: How to inspect a shoe:

The main points in a shoe inspection are as follows:
#1. Is this the correct shoe, a matched pair?
#2. Is the shoe clean?
#3. Does the shoe follow the specification?
#4. Is the workmanship of high quality?
#5. Is the shoe damaged in any way?

How to check the quality of a sneaker

Shoe_quality_inspection_BoxedThe first step of your shoe quality inspections will be to review the shoe packaging. Is the shoe in the correct inner box for its model? Is the box presentable? You should inspect the box to ensure it is not damaged or dirty. Is the box the correct size? The shoe should not be crushed inside a small box. Confirm the information on the box end label matches the shoe Color/Model/Size. Check any hangtags to make sure they are correct for the shoe.

 

quality control on-site tests for shoes how to check quality of shoesRemove the shoes from the packing box.
Do you have a left and right?
Are the shoes the same size and color?
Check the shoe tongue label information –
I know this sounds crazy but in the factory, it’s not hard to put a right size 7 and a left size 7.5 into the same box.
Holding the shoe, place the pair of shoes bottom to bottom.
Check them for symmetry. Does the pair really match in length? The size marks match but are they the same length?

Key shoe quality issue: Symmetry

Now, holding the shoe from the bottom, roll the uppers together side by side.
You are now checking the alignment of the shoe parts. Starting from the front, roll the shoes to align the parts, toe caps, vamps, overlays, eye stays, and eyelets.
While you have the uppers side by side, compare the finish and colors of each part.

How to inspect a shoe footwear final inspection process
From the book How Shoes are Made

Next, hold the shoes up, looking at the heels. Make sure the shoes sit on the outsole straight. A shoe inspector checks to confirm the upper is not rotated off-center.

Now, rolling the heels together, check that the back height and collar lines match.

At this point, study the shoe bottoms. Do they match? Are the color blocks in the same location? Look over the midsole sidewall for wrinkles. Check the seam joining the upper to the outsole. Look out for any extra glue on the upper. 2mm is the limit for “over gluing.” Also, look for over buffing of the upper.
On the shoe bottom, check for color bleeding between color blocks. Look for any paint covering mistakes. Check to make sure the outsole parts fit together neatly without any extra glue.

Shoe Anatomy: The Basics On Quality Footwear Construction
Shoe Anatomy: The Basics On Quality Footwear Construction

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Footwear Inspection: Look inside!

Complete shoe quality inspections check each side inside and out. Now that we looked over the outside, it’s time to dive inside because a great looking shoe with defects inside is not salable. Look inside the shoe opening, is the lining clean and without wrinkles? Run your hand around the collar, feel for any lump, bumps, or glue. For leather shoes, be on the lookout for any lasting nails or staples. For sports shoes, make sure the footbed is straight, level, and fitting correctly. If the footbed is too small, it may slide around, too big, and the footbed may wrinkle or curl.

Next, inspect the tongue lining for wrinkles and lumps. Run your hand down inside to check the vamp and toe cap from inside. Feel around the toe along with the footbed for lasting wrinkles. Feel for any rough stitching inside.

Finally, make a quick check of the laces. You need to adjust the shoelaces if too long or too short, too long is much better than too short.

Common Shoe Quality Problems

Common Shoe Quality Problems how to check quality of shoes Quality Problems from “How Shoes are Made”

When you run shoe quality inspections, there are everyday things you should be looking for. You can call this the common shoe quality defect list. Is the shoe clean?  (White shoes can be hard to make inside a dirty factory.) Is the color matching of shoe parts correct, (suede and natural leathers can be tricky.) Material quality? Is the suede hairy? Rough trimming or rough cutting? Upper wrinkles? Make sure to check around the collar foam.

 

Final Word on Shoe Quality Inspections

When inspecting, it’s critical to decide if the problems you see are a “one-off” mistake or a systematic problem that will affect every shoe. It’s vital to know that inside the factory, the same worker completes an entire operation. If the vamp stitcher is having a bad day, you may see lots of crooked stitching on a vamp.

Finally, when you check shoe quality inspections “inbound” inside your warehouse, you already own the problem. Ask yourself, how did this shoe get this far? What is the footwear final inspection process? Who missed these problems inside the factory before the shoes shipped? Heads should be rolling! Your factory has a quality control system flaw. Can you “fix” your factory? Maybe you need to find a new one?

 

Footwear Quality Assurance types of leather defects

You can learn more about shoe quality and shoe inspection procedures! Check out Chapter 25 on quality control in the book How Shoes are Made. You will learn how to check the quality of the sole of a shoe and how to inspect uppers. The book includes a footwear inspection checklist.
How Shoes are Made.

 

Check the quality of sneakers

  If you want to see a detailed quality inspection of an original Nike Air Force 1 Mid, Nike Air Max 90, or Vans Old Skool, check out these articles. You will see we have cut into the real and fake shoes to show you what quality looks like inside and out.

Nike Supreme Air Force 1 Mid : Real vs. Fake
Nike Air Max 90: Counterfeit vs. Real

 

 

How to Inspect a Shoe: Vans Old Skool

Read More: Complete vans inspection

New Online Course Sneaker Authentication

Learn how to authenticate shoes. We give the Vans Old Skool a complete shake down. Piece by piece we will study every part. Don’t get burned buying fakes ever again! Course Details Enroll now $199
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Nike Air Max 90: falsificación vs. original

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Nike Air Max 90: falsificación vs. original

¿Cómo puedes saber si tus zapatillas Nike Air Max 90 son originales o falsas? Vamos a estudiar dos pares de la clásica Air Max 90. Un par de estas zapatillas es real y está hecha por Nike; la otra es una falsificación de las Nike Air Max 90, 100% falsas. ¿Cómo puedes detectar el modelo Air Max que no es original? ¿cuáles son algunas de las diferencias entre la zapatilla real, y la falsificación?

¿Cómo puedes saber si tus zapatillas Nike Air Max 90 son originales o falsas? Vamos a estudiar dos pares de la clásica Air Max 90. Un par de estas zapatillas es real y está hecha por Nike; la otra es una falsificación de las Nike Air Max 90, 100% falsas. ¿Cómo puedes detectar el modelo Air Max que no es original? ¿cuáles son algunas de las diferencias entre la zapatilla real, y la falsificación?

Echemos un vistazo a la falsificación de las Nike Air Max 90

# 1. Echa un vistazo a la parte inferior del zapato.  

La suela, en el par rojo de Air Max 90 está hecha de goma, mientras que la suela azul está hecha de espuma de PU tintada. También se nota que la zapatilla azul es mucho más liviana que la zapatilla roja. Si miras de cerca, a la zapatilla azul le falta el logotipo de la marca Nike. Con lo cual, el modelo azul es la falsificación de las Nike Air Max 90.

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 # 2. Examina el logotipo de la lengüeta.

Nuestra zapatilla real tiene la etiqueta Nike + Swoosh cosida por los cuatro lados. El modelo falso tiene la etiqueta cosida desde el interior y volteada hacia arriba. En realidad, esta es una forma más estética de colocar la etiqueta de marca en la lengüeta, pero no es la construcción que se utiliza para las Nike originales. Echa un vistazo al logotipo, en la etiqueta real, la cola del swoosh del logo de Nike, se superpone y toca la letra “e” de Nike y la cabeza del swoosh casi toca la “n”. Si volvemos a mirar la etiqueta falsa, esta tiene el logotipo “Air” dos veces.

# 3. Echa un vistazo al logotipo del talón.

En nuestra falsificación de las Air Max 90, la costura de la pieza toca la letra “s” y la “r” del logotipo de Nike Air. Además, en la falsificación, al logotipo Air le falta la textura con las hendiduras moldeadas debajo de las letras; también hay que destacar que la parte superior del parche de las Nike originales tiene una curva bastante más pronunciada en el medio de la pieza.

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los zapatos

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# 4. Examinemos el logo “AIR MAX” del lateral.

Nuestra falsificación Nike tiene un logotipo en dos tonos, mientras que las Nike originales lo tiene en un solo color. Al tocar la pieza en la que está hecha el logotipo, en las Nike Air Max originales, este está hecho de un plástico rígido, ya que su ubicación en la zapatilla está justo encima de la suela. El logotipo falso está hecho de un material más suave, y se deforma al montarse la zapatilla. En el original podemos decir que está hecho por inyección de plástico, mientras que, en la falsificación, el logotipo es de un material de PVCsuave.

# 5. Echa un vistazo a la pintura que está alrededor de la cámara de aire en la parte de la plataforma.

Si bien la pintura original de Air Max no es perfecta, en la falsificación es un desastre y está tintado por fuera de las líneas.

# 6. Mira la plantilla anatómica.

Las zapatillas Nike originales tienen una plantilla de EVA moldeada por compresión, con un diseño 3D en la suela, y un logotipo impreso. Las Air Max 90 falsas tiene una lámina de espuma troquelada, muy barata.

Examinemos por dentro de las Nike Air Max 90 falsas

Algunos de vosotros os vais a sentir mal con este próximo paso, aquí es cuando sacamos los cuchillos y echamos un vistazo dentro de las dos Nike Air Max 90.

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How a running shoe is made
what material are running shoes made of

   
# 7. Vamos a echar un vistazo al interior de la lengüeta.

Dentro de las Nike originales, encontramos una capa extra de espuma que no encontramos en la falsificación.

Shoemaking Blogs
handbook of footwear design and manufacture

    
# 8. Echemos un vistazo a los refuerzos que componen corte.

Las Nike auténticas tienen un material textil no tejido, denominado en inglés super tuff, que se encuentra bajo los pinchazos por donde pasan los cordones. La zapatilla Nike que no es original, no tiene ningún refuerzo de este tipo.

# 9. Vamos a comparar la construcción de la entresuela de las dos zapatillas.

La entresuela de las zapatillas originales está compuesta de una espuma de PU que es flexible y solida. En el modelo no original, se ve que está diseñado para ahorrar en material y está ensamblada con una plancha de PU rígida y barata que se dobla. Si echamos un vistazo a la base, la plantilla strobel de las Nike originales está bien adherido a la entresuela, mientras que la zapatilla falsa, apenas está pegado.

Las zapatillas Nike originales tienen una cámara de aire hecha con una capa muy fina de aire moldeado, con 3 celdas. En las Nike que no son originales, se puede ver una cámara de aire más gruesa y rígida; también podemos ver los diferentes colores de los materiales del airbag si comparamos los dos modelos. Nike usa una fórmula especial para ayudar a mantener el aire dentro (tiene un tinte amarillo), mientras que, en la copia, esta pieza está hecha de plástico PVC transparente.

10 Ways To Identify A Fake Nike Shoe
How to Spot Fake Nikes: 10 Steps Nike Counterfeit Shoe sneaker design book handbook of footwear design and manufacture

Patronaje de calzado y diseño de hormas

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# 11. Ahora, al retirar el forro, vemos todavía más diferencias entre la zapatilla original y el modelo falso.

Si bien, ambas zapatillas utilizan una base de cartón inyectada en plástico como contrafuerte en el talón, vemos la diferencia entre la copia, donde no se ajusta bien por el tamaño, y los bordes no han sido rebajados. También podemos mirar la chapuza que hay en la zona del tacón en la entresuela, un desastre.

# 12. Vamos a mirar la puntera por dentro de la zapatilla.

El modelo falso no ha sido confeccionado cuidadosamente, y la operación del deshormado ha dejado huella en el interior; fijaos en el espaciado de las puntadas strobel que sujetan la parte superior a la parte inferior. En la zapatilla original de Nike, estas puntadas están muchas más juntas, mientras que la copia tiene algunas puntadas sueltas, desiguales y están demasiado espaciadas.

Investiga por tu cuenta

En este caso, nuestra falsificación Nike Air Max 90 es realmente una zapatilla muy mal hecha, puedes ver que no solo hay errores en los detalles del propio diseño, sino que también vemos que la construcción interna es muy mala. Con lo cual, mientras que la zapatilla que no es original puede verse bastante bien en el exterior, el interior es un claro ejemplo de calzado de baja calidad.

Cuando compres zapatillas, especialmente los modelos más clásicos de Nike, investiga. Si el precio parece demasiado bueno para ser cierto, o si la tienda parece sospechosa, es posible que estés delante de falsificaciones.

Nike Air Jordan: falsificación vs. modelo original

Real of fake Air Jordan

Tenemos dos pares de Air Jordan 1 y vamos a echar un vistazo a los detalles que cuentan la gran historia de las falsificaciones de Nike. Estudiaremos el modelo Air Jordan original comprado directamente a Nike, y la zapatilla falsificada importada del sur de China. Aprenderás a decir si una zapatilla Nike es real o falsa.

descargar cuatro libros de zapatería

“Cómo se hacen los zapatos”
“Guía para el diseño de materiales de calzado“
“Cómo empezar tu propia empresa de calzado“
“Patronaje de calzado y diseño de hormas”
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See inside a Designer Handbag Factory

Workers in a hand bag factory

Leather bags in a handbag factory

Handbag Factory Tour

On a recent factory tour in China I was invited to visit a friend’s designer handbag factory.  Since I was formerly bag designer, I was  especially excited to have a look inside to see what was going on. The purse factory we toured was making medium priced leather and fabric bags for export to the USA and Europe.

Purses and bags follow many of the same techniques found in shoemaking.  Material selection, cutting, processing and assembly processes are similar to footwear. One thing you will commonly see in a handbag factory is particular attention being paid to the edges of the material.  Every edge gets some type of finishing treatment.  A large portion of the factory was filled with racks of painted parts hanging to dry. You will not see this in a shoe factory.

This particular factory has a huge selection of available models. The store house has hundreds of different cutting dies and a massive collection of stock materials.


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Handmade Shoes for Men

Handmade Shoes for Men

Handmade Shoes for Men Book Review

Handmade Shoes for Men
Available on Amazon

Handmade Shoes for Men
by Laszlo Vass & Magda Molnar

Hard Cover: 216 Pages Published 2015
What Amazon says: Handmade Shoes for Men elucidates the entire process of creating classic men’s shoes, while the detailed color photographs document every stage of production. It is a worthy introduction, for both the professional and the layman, to the wealth of tradition that is waiting to be discovered in the shoemaker’s workshop.
What The Sneaker Factory Crew has to say:  We really like this book. Handmade shoes for Men is a great read.  The book is well written and we found it very interesting.  Laszlo Vass and Magda Molnar have done a nice job detailing the process for making hand made shoes.  This is the classical ART of shoe making not the heartless mass production of china.  Laszlo Vass is a real shoe maker practicing the highest form of our art.
From measuring feet, to lasts making, to leather tanning, shoe design, cutting, stitching, lasting and finishings this book has it all.  If you are interested the art of Handmade shoes for Men then this is the book for you.
We give this book 5 Stars.   Now Available on Amazon

About the Author

László Vass, born in Budapest in 1946, worked in the Hungarian fashion house of Magyar Divatintezet as a clicker, closer, shoemaker, and designer from 1964 until 1969. In 1970, having gained his professional shoemaking qualification, he joined a private workshop specializing in handmade shoes and ladies’ boots as assistant chief designer and shoemaker. In 1978, Vass founded his own workshop and opened a business in the centrt of Budapest. Since 1988, he and his 20 staff have concentrated on traditional shoemaking. Today, the exquisite quality of the shoes made by the firm of Vass has earned the workshop enormous respect throughout Europe.

  • Hardcover: 216 pages
  • Publisher: h.f.ullmann publishing (February 1, 2013)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 3848003686
  • ISBN-13: 978-3848003686
  • Product Dimensions: 8.7 x 0.8 x 10.2 inches


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Shoe Designers Specification Pack: For Download

Shoe Designers Specification Pack

Get Started Designing Shoes Today!

Shoe Designers Spec PackThis Shoe Specification Drawing Pack is all you need to get started detailing your own shoe designs. This pack contains a technical spec drawing which is a fully detailed shoe design ready for your creative touch. Upper views, outsole designs, material specs, and colors are all included. This is how a pro prepares a shoe design for the factory. This 8-page drawing set is in Adobe .pdf format and Adobe Illustrator .ai live vector file. No shoe design spec pack is complete without the flat pattern. We have included the actual factory-made flat pattern for this shoe in Adobe .pdf format and Adobe Illustrator .ai live vector file. From this drawing pack, we created a real shoe specification document so you can see exactly what a shoe factory needs to bring your shoe design to life. The fully detailed spec contains line items for shoe parts, material specs, and colors. The file is in Microsoft .xls format. To complete this spec pack we have included a real factory outsole blueprint with every part called out. You can see all the details in PDF and live vector .ai formats.

This pack contains a complete shoe development specification:

1.  Sample shoe specification drawing (8 pages).  Includes PDF and live vector .ai formats.
2.  The factory made flat pattern in PDF and live vector .ai formats.
3.  A real factory blueprint for an EVA/ rubber running shoe outsole unit in PDF and live vector .ai formats.
4.  Complete line item shoe specification in Microsoft .xls format.

Available for Instant Download: $14.99

Ariss_Jogger_Spec_SheetIncluded: Shoe Production Specification

A detailed specification sheet is absolutely critical to your success. If you leave line items open with no detail the factory will choose whatever they have available inside the factory for these parts. This may be good or bad, but either way, you will get an unexpected result.

 

shoe specification drawingsIncluded: Shoe Technical Drawings

This technical drawing pack is all you need to get started detailing your new shoe designs. The technical spec drawing is a fully detailed shoe design ready for your creative touch to detail shoe uppers, shoe outsoles, material, and colors. This is how footwear pros prepare a shoe design for the factory.  This 8-page drawing set is in Adobe .pdf format and Adobe Illustrator .ai live vector file.

 

Factory shoe flat pattern

Included: Shoe Flat Pattern

This is the actual factory-made flat pattern for the sample shoe. It is saved in Adobe .pdf format and Adobe Illustrator .ai live vector file.

 

how to draw shoe outsoles, shoe blue printIncluded: Shoe Outsole Blueprints

These outsole blueprints are real production drawings. Drawn by the factory mold shop in preparation for cutting the first sample outsole, they show every detail of the design, construction, and materials. The blueprints are in Adobe .pdf format and Adobe Illustrator .ai live vector file.

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9 Spec creations lessons.
2 hours of video instruction.
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How Shoes are Made: Reviews and Comments

Reviews and Comments

At SneakerFactory.net we work hard to bring you this website and blog. We encourage and appreciate your feedback and comments to help us make How Shoes are Made, How to Start Your Own Shoe Company, Shoe Material Design Guide, and our other products even better!

We hope to hear from you soon.

Kind regards,
The SneakerFactory.net team

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Are Nike sneakers the best?

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The question:
Does Nike Make the Best Sneakers?

This question is not so simple as the Nike Corporation makes thousands of different models, so they must be the best?  I did see a report that stated Nike makes over 10 million different products, This does sound crazy but they do have sales of over 39 Billion with a “B”.   Yes! They make a lot of sneakers but are they the best?

Fake Nike

Nike dominates Sneaker markets

There is no denying that Nike dominates some product footwear categories.  Any visit to your local sporting good store will show you that. But in the case of shoes best really means the best for you! In basketball and running there is no question that Nike is dominating! The sneakers collectors market is NIKE and then a distant second Yeezy branded shoes.

Nike Zoom Vaporfly Next% The best running shoe

Nike dominates running Technology

At this moment Nike has ignited an arms race in performance running shoes. The record-breaking marathon times of breaking times of with elite Kenyan runner Eliud Kipchoge are proof that Nike is doing something special. The discussion of banning the Nike Zoom Vaporfly Next% shows that Nike is back into the business of disrupting “the business”.

Are Nike shoes top quality?

Yes.  Both the expensive shoes and the cheap Nike shoes are made to high technical standards.   When you buy Nike you are buying a well made shoe.  This is not so special, the other big brands Adidas for example offer the same build quality.  The difference comes in the materials used. A more expensive shoes will have materials that are stronger, lighter , possibly more flexible depending on the model of the shoe.

What shoe is best for you?

But what makes are shoe really the “Best” is how it works for you!  The shoe that is best for your foot shape, flexibility, sporting activity  and personal style may not be a Nike.  Me personally, I don’t own any and I’m a shoe hound for sure, but the Nike running shoes lasts just don’t feel comfortable to my foot.

Air Jordan Imminent Back View

So you can go with confidence and get a pair of Nikes- Buy them and Love them, If they work for you!  But if you are not 100% in love, don’t be afraid to shop around.  You may just find a smaller company that makes the “Best” shoe for you!

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Sneaker Collecting Books

Guide to sneaker collecting

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