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Creating Your Shoe Company

Creating Your Footwear Company

Creating Your Footwear Company

When should you legally create your company?

You need to be legally creating your shoe company at the time when you hire people to provide services and start spending money. Up until this point your shoe brand is just an idea on paper. While it may exist in your mind, or on a note pad, once you need to start spending money, it’s real!

Your shoe company needs a name

Your shoe company name does not need to be the same as the brand name you put on your shoes. It can be, but it’s not required. If you think you may have more brands in the future, then pick something different. People often confuse the “company” name with the “brand” name. They are not the same. Think of a huge company like Proctor & Gamble TM. This company owns hundreds of different brand names, like Tide™, Pampers™, Cascade™, Braun™, Dawn™ and dozens of others. You can call your company almost anything you want, except a name that has already been taken. Often, a company with several brands will change its name to be the name of its most popular product.

What type of company?

Your new shoe company will need to be a legal business and be registered with the government. In the USA there are several options. The sole proprietorship and the limited liability company (LLC) are the most common for start-ups.

Sole Proprietorship for footwear

The sole proprietorship is the easiest company to set up. YOU are a sole proprietorship. You don’t need to file any tax paperwork. Although you still need to get local permits and licenses to legally do business. The sole proprietorship is simple as it is just YOU. Your personal finances are the company’s finances. Should something bad happen to your footwear company, it’s actually happening to YOU.

Learn more about starting a footwear Sole Proprietorship and the following topics in the book, How to Start Your Own Shoe Company.

Limited Liability Company (LLC) advantages for your shoe business

Product liability insurance for Footwear Manufacturers

Local government permits for shoe companies

Doing Business As (DBA) – Fictitious Names for your footwear brand

Seller’s permits for shoe businesses

Creating and protecting footwear trademarks

Web domains for your shoe brand

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How Shoes are Made: 2020 Update

How Shoes are Made Books

How Shoes Are Made Download

Originally published in June of 2014, How Shoes are Made, has been continuously corrected, updated, and modified.  With feedback from our readers, reviewers, editors, and friends, we have worked to make this newly updated edition more useful, interesting, and concise.

 

We have made some major updates in formatting and contents. You will find dozens of new footwear photos and new shoe diagrams.  Chapter 3: Making Footwear Patterns, has been completely reworked. I think you will find it much more useful. You will find more information about shoe construction methods, how shoes are designed, how to manufacture shoes, sports shoe construction, parts of a shoe, and parts of a shoe last.

If you have a copy of the original or second edition you will notice that the chapters on importing shoes and starting a new shoe company have been removed. These chapters have been expanded into a completely new book, How to Start a New Shoe Company, which is now available on the SneakerFactory.com website and Amazon.com.  We have put many hours into these improvements and we hope you will enjoy them!

How Shoes are Made book:
Table of Contents

 

Chapter 1 : The shoe Design Process Two types of design briefs Get started drawing shoes

Chapter 1: The Shoe Design Process
Two types of design briefs
Get started drawing shoes
How are shoes designed

 

Chapter 2 : footwear Specification drawings How to make a factory ready specification drawing What to include in a specification

Chapter 2 : Footwear Specification Drawings
How to make a factory-ready specification drawing
What to include in a specification

 

Chapter 3 : Making Footwear Patterns Shoe designer vs pattern maker The pattern maker’s challenge

Chapter 3 : Making Footwear Patterns
Shoe designer vs. pattern maker
The pattern maker’s challenge
How to make a shoe pattern

 

Chapter 4 : Shoe Specification documents Parts of a shoe spec How to detail a spec sheet

Chapter 4 : Shoe Specification Documents
Parts of a shoe spec
How to detail a spec sheet
Sports shoe construction

 

Chapter 5 : Outsole Tooling Design Footwear outsole types Outsole blue prints and tooling development

Chapter 5 : Outsole Tooling Design
Footwear outsole types
Outsole blueprints and tooling development

 

Chapter 6 : Footwear Development Process Footwear sample making Development samples phases

Chapter 6 : Footwear Development Process
Footwear sample making
Development samples phases

 

Chapter 7 : Footwear Pre-Production Production size grade Production cutting equipment

Chapter 7 : Footwear Pre-Production
Production size grade
Production cutting equipment
Lasting methods of footwear

 

Chapter 8 : SHOE Material Preparation Material cutting Logo printing and preparations

Chapter 8 : Shoe Material Preparation
Material cutting
Logo printing and preparations

 

Chapter 9 : Upper Stitching Operations The stitching room Stitching order of operations

Chapter 9 : Upper Stitching Operations
The stitching room
Stitching order of operations
How shoes are made in a factory

 

Chapter 10 : outSOle Rubber Pressing Mixing rubber materials Rubber molds and pressing

Chapter 10 : Outsole Rubber Pressing
Mixing rubber materials
Rubber molds and pressing
How Rubber outsoles are made

 

Chapter 11 : EVA midsole Forming1 What is EVA made of? EVA pressing operations

Chapter 11 : EVA midsole Forming
What is EVA made of? 
EVA pressing operations

 

Chapter 12 : The shoe Assembly Line Cold cement shoe construction Vulcanized shoe construction

Chapter 12 : The Shoe Assembly Line
Cold cement shoe construction
Vulcanized shoe construction
Cementing shoes
Shoemaking equipment

 

Chapter 13 : The Shoe Last Shoe last shapes How lasts are made

Chapter 13 : The Shoe Last
Parts of a shoe last
Shoe last shapes
How lasts are made

 

Chapter 14 : Footwear Costing Where does the money go? Reading a factory cost sheet

Chapter 14 : Footwear Costing
Where does the money go?
Reading a factory cost sheet

 

Chapter 15 : Logo Design for Shoes What is the right logo for your shoe? Shoe logo constructions

Chapter 15 : Logo Design for Shoes
What is the right logo for your shoe?
Shoe logo constructions

 

Chapter 16 :Leather for Shoes Leather basics Common leather for shoes

Chapter 16 : Leather for Shoes
Leather basics
Common leather for shoes

 

Chapter 17 : Textiles for Shoes Fabric weaves Backing and surface treatments

Chapter 17 : Textiles for Shoes
Fabric weaves
Backing and surface treatments

 

Chapter 18 : Synthetics for Shoes Synthetic types Application on shoes

Chapter 18 : Synthetics for Shoes
Synthetic types
Application on shoes

 

Chapter 19 : Foam for Shoes Foam types, open vs closed Foam compounds, densities and use in shoes

Chapter 19 : Foam for Shoes
Foam types, open vs closed
Foam compounds, densities and use in shoes

 

Chapter 20 : Know Your Footbeds Footbed parts Material types for shoes

Chapter 20 : Know Your Footbeds

Footbed parts
Material types for shoes

 

Chapter 21 : Footwear Material Suppliers Working with material suppliers List of top shoe material suppliers

Chapter 21 : Footwear Material Suppliers
Working with material suppliers
List of top shoe material suppliers

 

Chapter 22 : Shoe Designers Tools The Pantone™ color system Common tools of the trade

Chapter 22 : Shoe Designers Tools
The Pantone™ color system
Common tools of the trade

 

Chapter 23 : Jobs in the Shoe Trades Getting started in the trades There is a job for you

Chapter 23 : Jobs in the Shoe Trades
Getting started in the trades
There is a job for you

 

Chapter 24 : Footwear Quality Control How to grade shoe quality? Standard shoe inspection procedure

Chapter 24 : Footwear Quality Control
How to grade shoe quality?
Standard shoe inspection procedure

 

Chapter 25 : Life at a Shoe Factory Look inside a real factory Working conditions

Chapter 25 : Life at a Shoe Factory
Look inside a real factory
Working conditions

 

Chapter 26 : Shoe Making Dictionary Shoe making terms you should know Shoe parts diagram

Chapter 26 : Shoe Making Dictionary
Shoe making terms you should know
Shoe parts diagram

 

 

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Tour a Factory Producing Handmade Shoes

Tour a custom shoe factory

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Italian Quality Handmade Shoes in China

Custom Shoe Show Room

Custom Made shoes in China Italian High Quality Shoes
Handmade in China

Can high quality handcrafted shoes be made in China? Yes! The modern shoemaking trades have been thriving in China for more than 30 years. Shoemaking  is a mature industry in China and there are thousands of skilled shoemakers with many years of experience.  While China is known for the mass production of millions of glittering sport shoes, the manufacturing of handcrafted fine leather shoes is also well developed.
Handmade custom shoes The typical shoe factory in China will have hundreds, even thousands of workers, but there is a new class of small factories now producing the highest quality custom and semi-custom shoes. On a recent visit to China, I toured the show room of the custom shoe maker Top Owen. Owen, the founder of the brand, learned his trade in mass production of athletic footwear, but then changed course.
Custom Shoe Factory With a desire to create european craftsmanship in China, Owen left his job at a huge shoe factory to build his own micro factory.  Owen hired on a staff of 25 expert shoe makers to operate his new custom shoe factory. After careful study of the highest quality European hand crafted shoes, Owen and his team now offer custom hand crafted footwear for shoe connoisseurs lucky enough to find him.
Owen now has many exotic leathers available for custom “one off” creations including ostrich, crocodile, alligator, snake, lizard and others.
Without any advertising or a website, Owen has created a loyal following for his exquisitely made custom shoes. Beyond shoes, Owen offers his customers other leather goods complementary to the footwear. If you would like a wallet, handbag, briefcase, belt or even a leather golf bag custom made to complement your shoes, Top Owen can deliver!
Top Owen offers a wide range of offshore making services and shoe styles.

Designer Series Custom Athletic Shoes:

Custom Made athletic shoes Are you looking for some custom made kicks?  Owen has a section of mock vulc stitch down soles, classic trainer wedge, and classic basketball sole units available.  For around $400 USD you can get your own pattern custom made in full grain leather. For an extra $125 USD you can have a test pattern sent to you for fitting.
Other options include a custom wooden box.

Designer Series Fashion Shoes:

Send Owen a design for dress shoes and his team will create exactly what you want.  You pick the design, last shape, leathers and any extra styling work you desire. Prices start around $400 USD – depending on your material and design requirements. For an extra $125 USD you can have a test pattern sent to you for fitting.
Other options include a custom wooden box.

Full Custom Shoe Service:

Are you looking for a full custom fit? For a 100% hand made last fit just for you?  The full custom program brings the high end European custom made service to you at a fraction of the European price.  Send Owen and his team photographs of your foot and record the critical measurements.  Then, send Owen your design for the dress shoes and his team will create them to your specifications. Once again, you pick the design, last shape, leathers and any extra styling work you desire.
This Full Custom Service includes a lifetime service, warranty, repair and refresh service.
Prices start around $1000 USD – depending on your material and design requirements.

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See inside a Designer Handbag Factory

Workers in a hand bag factory

Leather bags in a handbag factory

Handbag Factory Tour

On a recent factory tour in China I was invited to visit a friend’s designer handbag factory.  Since I was formerly bag designer, I was  especially excited to have a look inside to see what was going on. The purse factory we toured was making medium priced leather and fabric bags for export to the USA and Europe.

Purses and bags follow many of the same techniques found in shoemaking.  Material selection, cutting, processing and assembly processes are similar to footwear. One thing you will commonly see in a handbag factory is particular attention being paid to the edges of the material.  Every edge gets some type of finishing treatment.  A large portion of the factory was filled with racks of painted parts hanging to dry. You will not see this in a shoe factory.

This particular factory has a huge selection of available models. The store house has hundreds of different cutting dies and a massive collection of stock materials.


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How Designer Handbags are Made

handbag designs 2015 simple purse pattern

How Designer Handbags are Made

As a shoe designer you may be called upon to work on many different soft goods projects.  My design career started with bag design, moved on to footwear design, and now I work in both fields every day.

You will find that footwear and fashion handbags have a lot  in common. Many of the design and manufacturing aspects are the same. Footwear and designer handbag materials and constructions are very similar. While shoe patterns and handbag patterns are very different they do have many of the same processing requirements.

When I saw the crew over at FASHIONARY had put together new book on bag design, I could not resist adding it to my own design library. The book is titled BAG DESIGN, and that says it all. Inside you will find style notes, detail drawings, pattern designs, spec sheets and material guides. The book is very complete. More than just designs for handbags, the book contains over 60 design templates for all types of bags from wallets, to golf bags, to backpacks and more.

You can pick up this book from Amazon.com

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Handmade Shoes for Men

Handmade Shoes for Men

Handmade Shoes for Men Book Review

Handmade Shoes for Men
Available on Amazon

Handmade Shoes for Men
by Laszlo Vass & Magda Molnar

Hard Cover: 216 Pages Published 2015
What Amazon says: Handmade Shoes for Men elucidates the entire process of creating classic men’s shoes, while the detailed color photographs document every stage of production. It is a worthy introduction, for both the professional and the layman, to the wealth of tradition that is waiting to be discovered in the shoemaker’s workshop.
What The Sneaker Factory Crew has to say:  We really like this book. Handmade shoes for Men is a great read.  The book is well written and we found it very interesting.  Laszlo Vass and Magda Molnar have done a nice job detailing the process for making hand made shoes.  This is the classical ART of shoe making not the heartless mass production of china.  Laszlo Vass is a real shoe maker practicing the highest form of our art.
From measuring feet, to lasts making, to leather tanning, shoe design, cutting, stitching, lasting and finishings this book has it all.  If you are interested the art of Handmade shoes for Men then this is the book for you.
We give this book 5 Stars.   Now Available on Amazon

About the Author

László Vass, born in Budapest in 1946, worked in the Hungarian fashion house of Magyar Divatintezet as a clicker, closer, shoemaker, and designer from 1964 until 1969. In 1970, having gained his professional shoemaking qualification, he joined a private workshop specializing in handmade shoes and ladies’ boots as assistant chief designer and shoemaker. In 1978, Vass founded his own workshop and opened a business in the centrt of Budapest. Since 1988, he and his 20 staff have concentrated on traditional shoemaking. Today, the exquisite quality of the shoes made by the firm of Vass has earned the workshop enormous respect throughout Europe.

  • Hardcover: 216 pages
  • Publisher: h.f.ullmann publishing (February 1, 2013)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 3848003686
  • ISBN-13: 978-3848003686
  • Product Dimensions: 8.7 x 0.8 x 10.2 inches


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The History of Sneakers Poster

A Visual Compendium of Sneakers.

The History of Sneakers Poster

I love this History of sneakers poster!  I have a copy hanging in my own in my design studio. This is poster features a meticulously illustrated collection of the 134 greatest sneakers in human history, starting with the Chuck Taylor way back in 1917, progressing through the styling low-tops of the 60s and 70s, delving deep into the great sneaker explosion of the 1980s, and carrying through the instant classics of the modern day.

This Sneaker history poster has everything from ageless Adidas designs, the many, many permutations of Air Jordans, groundbreaking skate shoes like Vans and monsters from the golden age of Reebok (such as the Shaq Attack and Alien Stomper)   Just $35 bucks at Amazon!
The History of Sneakers
Each print comes packaged in a Pop Chart Lab Test Tube.

Using 100 lb. archival stock certified by The Forest Stewardship Council, this poster is pressed on an offset lithographic press with vegetable-based inks in Long Island City, New York.

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How a Running Shoe is Made

How running shoes are made

How Running Shoes are Made

How running shoes are madeAll running shoes are made by the cold cement construction process. If you want to learn how to design shoes you need to know this basic shoe making process.   Cold cement is the modern updated style of shoe construction.  Due to the low temperatures required for bonding the upper to the shoe sole, it allows the use of modern lightweight plastic, foam and mesh materials.  Every modern high performance running shoe is made by this cold cement process.

Running Shoe Upper Stitching Process:

How Running Shoes are Made-cutting DiesWhat are the best materials for running shoes?  Most running shoes are constructed with breathable knit Polyester or Nylon mesh. Knit fabric allow the material to smoothly follow the last curves.  Running shoe uppers often with PU leather reinforcements.  Pu or synthetic leathers are great for running shoes as they have some stretch and are damaged by water.  The classic running shoe is made from suede with some mesh inserts.  While suede is comfortable and conforming, it’s not weather resistant and it’s very heavy when wet.

How Running Shoes are Made- CuttingThe pattern parts for the shoe are made into steel cutting dies.  A cutting die is required for every part and every size.  Each shoe part is cut from rolls of fabric or from leather hides.  Fabric parts may be layered so many can be cut at the same time.  Leather parts must be cut one by one to avoid having scars or other imperfections in the leather show on the final product.

The factories cutting department cuts all the parts for each running shoe, then gathers the parts into kits.  One kit for each pair of shoes.  After several hundred or even 1000 kits are complete they are passed to the stitching department for assembly.

Learn about the Shoe Business

Aspiring shoemakers start here! How Shoes are Made is your entry into the world of modern shoe making. Tour a real shoe factory and learn the process from design to manufacturing.
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The stitching department builds the parts of the running shoe sewing then together, finally closing the shoe and adding the tongue.

shoe making for beginners pdf, how to make shoes step by step, shoe making kit, how to start making shoes, how to start making your own shoes,
shoe making for beginners pdf, how to make shoes step by step, shoe making kit, how to start making shoes, how to start making your own shoes,

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Shoemaking for Designers & Brand Builders

Created for footwear beginners and career changers alike, this course delivers the basic shoemaking knowledge you need to get you career in the shoe trades started.
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Running Shoe Production Assembly Process:

shoe making for beginners pdf, how to make shoes step by step, shoe making kit, how to start making shoes, how to start making your own shoes,

The running shoe upper is prepared with the strobel bottom.  The outsole covers the edge of the upper so a strobel bottom can be used to make the shoe lighter and more flexible.

The running shoe upper is steamed to soften the materials and the last is inserted and pulled tight.   Once the last is tight inside the upper a second lasting machine pulls the heel edge.  Once the last is secured inside the upper, temporary shoes laces are pulled tight, and the upper is cooled which allows the upper to shrink and fit tight to the last.

The shoe may have a plastic or fabric part installed on top of the tongue to protect the surface from damage and drift during the lasting operations.

While the upper is being lasted, the sole unit is being prepared. In this case, a rubber sheet sole is combined with the EVA foam cushioning component cemented inside. This is done in a separate process that’s called stock fitting.

Running shoe midsoles will be made from weight EVA foam.  A thin layer of rubber will allow the EVA to flex, but protect the midsole from wear.

Now that the upper is lasted tightly and the outside unit is compete, the two pieces come together. The rubber sole unit will receive coatings of primer and cement. The outsole will get its own special primer designed for EVA and rubber. The shoe upper is also prepared with its own special primer and cement.

shoe making for beginners pdf, how to make shoes step by step, shoe making kit, how to start making shoes, how to start making your own shoes,

After the contact cement and primer have been completely dried in the heating tunnels, the two pieces are joined together by hand. A skilled worker aligns the upper and outsole together then places the shoe in a hydraulic press.

The running shoe will have 3 pressing operations, usually all done with one machine: a vertical press, toe and heel press,  and side pressing. This insures full contact between the upper and outsole uit. Once the shoe is pressed together it’s often put in the cooling tunnel to set the glue.

After the cooling tunnel, a shoe de-lasting machine is used to push the last out of the shoe without wrinkling the running shoe upper.

Now the running shoe is complete!  At this point you can insert the footbed.  The footbed may be molded EVA with a fabric cover or flat sheet cut foam.  The flat die-cut footbed is usually cemented inside the shoe, while molded footbeds are most often removable.

The new runner is ready for a final QC inspection – a quick check for any loose threads, cleaning and then packing.

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What Shoe Factory Equipment do I need to make custom Sneakers?

Shoe Factory Equipment : How to make custom shoes?

Shoe Factory Equipment : What do I need to make custom Sneakers?

mini Shoe Factory equipment how to start a small shoe factory

There is a small but growing group of young shoe makers that are making high end custom shoes.  These shoe makers started repairing and replicating  Nike™ classic kicks but some have moved onto the creation of unique custom one-off shoes.
Wired™ magazine  recently ran a story on custom shoe maker Jacob Ferrato.   The article “Go Inside the Workshop of the Custom-Sneaker King” appears in the June 2016 Issue.   Read it Here!
See the Video here: JB Customs: Interview with Jacob Ferrato.

What equipment do you need to make a mini shoe factory?

What we are interested in is what shoe making equipment do you need to run a mini custom sneaker factory.  You can see in the article and videos a few different machines. These are real industrial machines you will find in any sample room of a large shoe factory.  These shoe sewing machines may be a little hard to find but they are all available in the USA, Europe and Asia.  If you want to start a small shoe factory these are the machines you will need.

Pattern Cutting in a mini shoe factory:

Cutting a custom shoe pattern For the custom shoe making process you can hand cut every piece with scissors or a sharp blade. Most shoe factories don’t actually buy cutting blades, they sharpen a small piece of steel in a few different shapes to suit what they are cutting.  In the video you can see a paper pattern template is used to trace the design onto the shoe materials.  The materials are then cut by hand. This process is used on all the leather and mesh parts.

Factory sample rooms have been looking at ways to speed up this process.  A large shoe factory will use a computer driven plotter cutter, water jet cutter, or even lasers to cut materials.  For a hand made shoe made without the use of a computer generated pattern, a machine like the new $2,300.00USD Glowforge machine may be the answer.  This laser will cut any design you draw on the materials.  This has the potential to revolutionize the custom shoe market. Check it out!

Custom shoe factory equipment Once the parts are cut you can see the edges are being skived.  In the video this is done by hand.  This is a time consuming process and it’s very easy to damage the cut shoe parts.  A shoe factory sample room will have a small electric skiver like this one, they don’t cost very much and will save time in our mini shoe factory.

Sewing Machines for a custom shoe factory

Flat bed sewing machines for a custom shoe factory In the Wired™ article you can see some of these the machines lined up.  The flat bed machine is the standard most recognizable type of machine. The machine is built into a table and run by an electric motor and has a foot control to advance the stitches automatically or one stitch at a time.  This is the most common machine for assembling the flat pattern parts of the shoe.

Once the upPost sewing machine per of the shoe has been stitched together, it needs to be “closed”. This closing operation creates an upper that cannot fit under the standard flat bed machine.  The second most common sewing machine you will see in a shoe factory is the “Post” style. Bulky items can fit under the machine for easy assembly.  This type of post sewing machine will be used to attach the tongue to the shoe or to secure the lining inside the shoe once it has been assembled into the final 3D shape.

small Custom Shoe Factory With the upper almost complete we will need a special sewing machine to finish it.  This machine is used to sew the bottom fabric onto the upper. This closes the upper. Now the upper is ready for lasting and assembly.

Now it’s time to assemble the sole onto the custom shoe.  There are two more pieces of shoe making equipment our mini footwear factory will need.  A sole press and a channel stitching machine.
sole press for a small shoe factory

Assembly of Custom Shoes

After the glue is applied to the upper and sole of the shoe it’s best to use a small press to make sure the bond is very strong.  A bench top shop press is not expensive and can generate enough force to press the parts together.

The final must have piece of equipment for a small custom shoe factory may be the most expensive.  This is a heavy duty channel stitching machine used to secure the upper to the shoe sole.  This machine to attach the shoe bottom to the uppersmachine is very powerful and can easily drive the needle and thread through the leather and rubber.

Because sole bonding with shoe cement is difficult for a mini factory, this machine insures the shoe bottom does not separate from the upper.   This machine has a long arm that can reach inside the shoe allowing the stitches to secure the rubber and upper together.

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