Are you ready to go all in on a career in footwear? Get the Shoemakers Academy All Access Pass today. You’ll gain immediate access to a comprehensive suite of courses designed to fast-track your success in the shoe industry.
Learn from industry pros as you explore essential topics like shoemaking for brand builders, selecting materials, and sneaker authentication. Equip yourself with practical shoe business skills in cost calculation, quality control, and factory development, ensuring your knowledge to thrive in the world of footwear.
Dive into creative workshops, including custom shoe design and sustainable strategies. Learn from the pros and develop skills to stand out in the competitive footwear job market. Don’t just dream about your footwear career—make it a reality! Start today with immediate access to the full curriculum of online shoemaking courses with the Shoemakers All Access Pass!
As an All Access Pass holder, you get personal access to 2 hours of private consulting with “The Shoe Dog.” Plus, immediate access to new courses released throughout the year and the full suite of 5 shoemaking eBooks.
This footwear masterclass has been selected for you by Wade Motawi, “The Shoe Dog.”
If you want to go deeper into the world of footwear AND get a huge discount? Check out the Shoemakers Academy All Access Pass for the entire course curriculum an unbeatable value and price.
Not sure which courses are right for you? Ask “The Shoe Dog.” Shoemakers Academy founder and footwear training expert Wade Motawi, “The Shoe Dog,” can help you design a custom footwear curriculum to meet your goals.
Launch your footwear brand with the knowledge you need to succeed! These online video courses for Footwear Brand Builders are designed for aspiring and established footwear entrepreneurs alike.
The comprehensive curriculum covers everything you need to succeed in the shoe business. Learn the art of shoemaking, from selecting high-quality materials and creating detailed specifications to mastering cost engineering and quality control measures.
Explore essential topics like footwear fit & comfort and sustainable practices for design and manufacturing. Courses on footwear import duty and launching your shoe business teach you the practical knowledge and insights necessary to navigate the complexities of the footwear market. Join today and turn your passion for shoes into a thriving brand!
This brand building masterclass has been selected for you by Wade Motawi, “The Shoe Dog.”
If you want to go deeper into the world of footwear brand building AND get a huge discount? Check out the Shoemakers Academy All Access Pass for the entire course curriculum an unbeatable value and price.
Not sure which courses are right for you? Ask “The Shoe Dog.” Shoemakers Academy founder and footwear training expert Wade Motawi, “The Shoe Dog,” can help you design a custom footwear curriculum to meet your goals.
Unlock your potential as a shoe designer with these comprehensive footwear training courses tailored for creativity and craftsmanship. From the basics in “Shoemaking for Brand Builders & Designers” to specialized modules on material selection, footwear specifications, and mastering Adobe Photoshop, this shoe designer’s curriculum covers every essential aspect of the industry.
Dive into vital footwear design topics like fitting and comfort, sustainable practices, and effective factory communications to ensure your shoe designs not only look great but also fit comfortably and align with modern values.
Whether you’re just starting out in the shoe business or looking to refine your shoemaking skills, these footwear training courses provide the tools you need to stand out in the competitive world of shoe design. Start today and take the first step towards realizing your dream career in shoe design.
This footwear design masterclass has been selected for you by Wade Motawi, “The Shoe Dog.”
If you want to go deeper into the world of shoe design AND get a huge discount? Check out the Shoemakers Academy All Access Pass for the entire course curriculum an unbeatable value and price.
Not sure which courses are right for you? Ask “The Shoe Dog.” Shoemakers Academy founder and footwear training expert Wade Motawi, “The Shoe Dog,” can help you design a custom footwear curriculum to meet your goals.
Welcome to Shoemakers Academy OnDemand training courses for Footwear Developers. Learn the essential skills and insights seasoned developers follow to make better products.
These footwear courses are geared for aspiring developers and cover a wide range of topics you’ll want to master, from selecting the best shoe materials and creating footwear specifications to understanding footwear production costs and quality control processes.
You’ll also learn the essentials of shoe fitting and comfort and study the complexities of footwear import duties and factory communications needed to improve your products and your bottom line.
Additional courses cover development communication tips and basic Adobe Photoshop for footwear development. Whether you’re a professional building your skills or a footwear beginner just starting out, these courses will provide you with the knowledge you need to elevate your footwear development expertise and succeed in this competitive industry.
This footwear development masterclass has been selected for you by Wade Motawi, “The Shoe Dog.”
If you want to go deeper into the world of shoe manufacturing AND get a huge discount? Check out the Shoemakers Academy All Access Pass for the entire course curriculum an unbeatable value and price.
Not sure which courses are right for you? Ask “The Shoe Dog.” Shoemakers Academy founder and footwear training expert Wade Motawi, “The Shoe Dog,” can help you design a custom footwear curriculum to meet your goals.
As a professional footwear developer, you play a critical role in the success of the shoes you are working on. You are not the designer or product manager, but once the shoe is passed into your hands, the outcome is your responsibility. You are responsible for ensuring the shoe is functional, comfortable, on schedule, captures the designer’s intent, and perhaps, most importantly, achieves the target price.
In most companies, the designer moves onto the next project, and the product manager runs the business. The day-to-day operations to keep the development on schedule and in line with the product brief are in your hands as the footwear developer.
I’ve worked as a developer for over 25 years, but I started as a designer and then a product manager. Trust me, I’ve seen all sides of the footwear creation operation. So here is my 10 point footwear developers check list.
Footwear Developer’s 10 Point Checklist.
1. Does your shoe project have a last? If not, do you have a process or a plan to get one? 2. Are the shoe design drawings complete? If not, who can complete them? Maybe the mold shop? 3. Do you have a realistic target price for the shoe and know the duty classification for the shoe?? If not, you will need to consider material and/or design changes to meet the target price and duty cost. 4. Do you see any potential technical problems? You may notice a feature that requires a new material or process. 5. Does the shoe require new tooling? If so, is the tooling budget approved? 6. Do you have a timetable?Looking at the time and technical requirements, do you see any potential problems? 7. Do you have a factory with the right capabilities and people? If not, you’d better start looking! Does the factory have the right personnel to face you and meet your requirements? 8. Do YOU have the experience and capabilities to make the project successful? If not, enlist some help! 9. If you see ANYTHING that will blow up the schedule or cost? It is your obligation to let your team members know as soon as possible. 10. You are the most important person on the development team. Remember, behind every world-famous hot shot shoe designer is the footwear developer who transformed their creativity into a real, functional piece of footwear.
Download The Checklist
Would you like to chat with Wade Motawi, The Shoe Dog, about your footwear development career?
A shoe last is a crucial component in the shoe development process as it shapes the final fit and form of the footwear. If your project currently lacks a last, it’s important to devise a clear process or plan to obtain one. This may involve reaching out to a specialized supplier or utilizing CAD software to create a custom last tailored to your design specifications. Ensuring that this foundational element is in place is essential for the success of your shoe project.
Thorough and complete design drawings are vital for accurate production and execution of your shoe. If you find that the drawings are not finished it’s crucial to identify who can take charge of completing them. This may involve collaborating with the mold shop or another design team that has the expertise needed to finalize the technical aspects. Clear and detailed drawings will help reduce misunderstandings during the manufacturing process.
Establishing a realistic target price is fundamental in ensuring the viability of your shoe project. If you haven’t set a price yet, it’s essential to evaluate the costs associated with the materials and design and make adjustments where necessary to align with market expectations. Additionally, understanding the duty classification for your shoe can influence pricing and overall profitability, making this knowledge imperative as you move forward.
Identifying potential technical problems early in the development process can save time and resources down the line. If you recognize a design feature that may necessitate new materials or processes, it’s essential to address these concerns proactively. Engaging with your team to brainstorm solutions can help mitigate risks and ensure that your project stays on track without compromising quality or functionality.
New tooling can be a significant investment in the shoe development process. It’s important to assess the tooling options for your project. If new tooling is necessary, confirm that you have an approved budget in place to cover these costs. This financial foresight will help avoid delays and ensure that production can proceed smoothly, ultimately allowing your shoe to reach the market on time.
Creating a realistic timetable for your shoe project is essential for effective project management. By reviewing the technical requirements and potential challenges, you can better anticipate any issues that may arise, allowing for timely adjustments to the schedule. Keeping an eye on deadlines will help maintain momentum and ensure that all stakeholders are aligned with the project’s progress. Items with seasonal timetables cannot slip into the next development cycle. Sandals must be delivered in time for summer sales and boots for winter sales.
Having access to a factory with the right capabilities is critical for the successful production of your shoe. If you do not currently have such a facility, it’s time to start searching for a partner that can meet your specific manufacturing needs. This includes evaluating their technical expertise, machinery, and capacity to ensure they can bring your design vision to life efficiently and effectively.
Reflecting on your own capabilities is crucial to the success of the shoe project. If you find that certain skills or resources are lacking, don’t hesitate to seek help. Collaborating with experts or bringing in additional team members with the right experience can provide the support needed to navigate challenges and elevate the project to new heights.
If you see ANYTHING that will blow up the schedule or price, it is your obligation to let your team members know as soon as possible. Transparency is key in a development team, especially when it comes to potential setbacks. If you identify any factors that could significantly impact the schedule or increase costs, it’s your responsibility to communicate these concerns to your team immediately. Early awareness of these issues allows for collective problem-solving and helps to minimize disruptions, keeping the project on track.
As a footwear developer, your role is integral to transforming the creative visions of designers into tangible, functional products. Remember that behind every renowned shoe designer is a dedicated developer who ensures that the concept becomes reality. Embrace this responsibility with confidence, knowing that your expertise is what brings innovation and quality to the footwear industry.
Organize the paper pattern parts. Make sure you have all five: tongue, toe tip, quarter side panels (left and right), and footbed pattern. Remember, you will need two sets of parts that mirror each other to make the left and right shoes.
Lay out the pattern parts on the pre-cut leather parts. You will use the footbed pattern to cut the EVA footbed and the pink colored lasting board.
Tape the pattern parts to the leather. Trace the outlines and punch the stitching holes. You can pre-punch the paper pattern or punch directly through the paper pattern into the leather.
BUILD TIP: You can punch right through the pattern don’t worry, use clear tape to repair any tears.
BUILD TIP: The EVA foam footbed part does not need punched holes; just mark and cut the outline.
BUILD TIP: Make sure your holes are punched cleanly through the leather, as this will make your stitching much easier.
The toe tip is symmetrical, you can cut the pair with the printed side of the pattern facing up.
BUILD TIP: Cut the toe tip part very carefully, as this will be front and center on the finished shoe.
The Tongue part is NOT symmetrical. The printed side of the pattern is the left side tongue. To create the right side part flip the tongue pattern print side down.
BUILD TIP: Punch the 4-square holes after you have attached the tongue to the shoe.
To create the quarters and footbed for the right-side shoe, mark and cut the parts with the printed side of the pattern facing up. To make the left-side parts, flip the pattern face down
BUILD TIP: Mark your parts left and right; keeping them separated is best. Also, mark your quarters medial (inside) and lateral (outside).
Cut your parts with scissors or a razor blade.
BUILD TIP: Cut just inside the line. If you cut outside the line, your shoe will be oversized.
BUILD TIP: Leave a little extra material above the heel seam. After stitching, this extra material will allow you to trim a smooth and even top line.
Step 2: Lace Hardware
Use the 5mm punch to create eyelet holes.
Push the rivet shaft into the 5mm hole and place it on the rivet setting base with the outside face of the rivet facing down. Add the rivet back to the setting post. Set the rivet with the setting punch and hammer.
BUILD TIP: Practice with scrap leather to find the hammering force required. Hint: It’s not too much.
Step 3: Sewing Your Upper
Use a cross stitch or overlay seam to join the back seam together. Using one thread and two needle technique, connect Part A to A. After sewing, trim the top edge to make it smooth and round.
Join the toe tip part to the quarter panel parts. Parts B to B and C to C. Wait to attach the tongue! You will do that later. Leave the tongue off to allow easy sole bonding and sole stitching. Your upper will look like this.
BUILD TIP: Use some scrap parts of leather and the extra thread color to practice your stitching technique.
Step 4: Strobel Stitching
Make sure you have the right upper and right lasting board. Start with the back seam A-A in the middle of the heel. On the bottom pattern, you will see the two dots that mark the heel. Make your Strobel stitching a little bit loose. You should have 1/8″ (2 mm) between the bottom edge of the leather upper and the edge of the lasting board. If the strobel stitching is too tight your upper will not fit the outsole easily, it will be too narrow.
BUILD TIP: When looking the bottom of the shoe you should see the leather along the outside of the edge lasting board. Not on top.
Step 5: Fitting The Sole Unit
Press the upper into the outsole, you should be able to press the leather against the side wall of the sole unit. If you can’t, you may need to release some tension and resew parts of the Strobel stitch. With your parts fitting, it’s time to glue. It should look like this.
BUILD TIP: If you have the SNF-1 Last that fits your kit, now is the time to use it. Slip the last inside your upper. It will be tight; be careful not to damage the upper.
Step 6: Glueing The Outsole
Press the upper into the outsole and mark the top edge. Use a pencil or disappearing ink pen. This is your glue line.
Clean your outsole to ensure the parts are dust-free and dry. Apply contact cement to the upper (below the glue line) and to the inside of the outsole. Apply two light coats and make sure the bonding surface is fully covered.
BUILD TIP: Take a five-minute break! Let the glue get tacky and dry to the touch. To speed up the drying, you can use a heat gun or hair dryer.
When the glue is dry, carefully press the parts together. Make sure the upper is sitting straight on the sole. Use your fingers to squeeze the parts together. You can move around the side wall. Work this for a few minutes to make sure the entire perimeter is bonded. You can also use your hammer handle to press the lasting board down into the sole.
You can use rubber bands to secure the upper to the outsole. If you have a shoe last, this a great time to insert the last and hammer the upper into place. Now, set this aside for a few hours or overnight. It’s best to let the glue fully cure before stitching.
If you see some small gaps around the top edge of the edge don’t worry. You can use a needle to apply some glue into the gaps, then when you are channel stiching take extra care to pull the gap closed.
Step 7: Stitching The Outsole
Use the punch needle or sewing awl to attach the outsole. Starting on the medial arch, insert the needle and feed the thread into the shoe. You will need a length of thread equal to 4 loops around the shoe sole. For your first stitch punch the needle into the groove and pull the thread inside your equal to one loop around. To complete your first stitch Punch the needle into the stitching groove. Slowly withdraw, leaving a small loop inside the shoe.
Feed the inner thread into the loop and pull both the inside and outside threads to secure the stitch. On the last stitch, pull the outside thread into the shoe and secure it with a knot.
Step 8: Stitching The Vamp
Using the one thread and two needle technique, start on the first hole of the vamp and the top hole of the toe-tip connection. D-D.
BUILD TIP: Make sure to start at the very first hole at the end of the toe tip part. This hole is the top of the connection stitch line. Yes it will have a stich already. No Problem!
Work your way around the vamp, trying to keep the tension even to avoid wrinkles on this important seam. You will be looking down on this when you wear your new shoes, so make sure it is your best work!
BUILD TIP: When you reach the end, secure the thread with a knot. You can hide the knot in between the layers.
Your final sewing operation will be the cross or square stitching to secure the quarter to the tongue. Use the 4 holes on the quarter as a guide and mark the holes on the tongue.
You can punch these with your sewing needle or the awl. Use the double needle technique to make your stitches. When you have finished stitching, You can feed the needle between the layers and hide your final knot.
Insert the footbed and add laces.
Congratulations! You did it!
Don’t forget to send us a photo of what you Made! TheShoeDog@shoemakersacademy.com
DIY Shoemaking Make your own shoes
We put it all together for you. DIY Build Kits include your choice of material, size, color, step-by-step written instructions. Learn shoe making techniques
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you can do it!
We love to celebrate when our clients do it right and succeed. A million dollars in sales is nothing for a Mega brand like Nike, but a huge milestone for a small brand. Wade shares their stories so you can learn from their success.
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Does Your Brand Need Help?
Are you facing challenges with your footwear brand or shoe project? Do you need personalized guidance from a seasoned footwear professional? Maybe you don’t have time to take the Shoemakers Academy course and need the top dog on your team now?
Look no further than our private and personal footwear consulting services, led by none other than Wade Motawi, renowned as “The Shoe Dog.” With over 25 years of expertise in footwear design, development, merchandising, and sourcing, Wade is here to help you navigate the intricacies of the industry.
Don’t waste any more time and money without consulting an expert. Schedule your private consultation now.
I recently came across a fascinating pair of shoes I couldn’t wait to share. The brand, Palladium, has a rich history dating back to 1947. Founded in France, the company initially specialized in creating a boot style worn by French Legionnaires. This particular style of boot predated the company’s establishment, and it is said to have been worn by French Legionnaires, fulfilling their duties in places such as Morocco, Algeria, and Indochina.
The original boots were crafted with a vulcanized rubber sole directly attached to the upper, while the modernized version features a rubber outsole unit and a rubberized top rand with the bottom made of EVA. Made entirely of polyester fabric, this updated version also includes an elastic shock cord, adding a contemporary touch to the classic design. Palladium describes the Pallabrousse Legion, the original canvas boot they produced in 1947, as the pillar of the Palladium legend. Now, the company is relaunching this iconic boot for a new generation of explorers.
As the boot that accompanied the French Foreign Legion across the globe, the Pallabrousse Legion has been reintroduced with modern materials while maintaining its timeless heritage. Palladium has used the original Pallabrousse molds and shoe lasts as the foundation for this project, ensuring that the original design elements have been enhanced to suit modern demands while preserving the boot’s classic appeal. The boot boasts a 100% organic cotton canvas upper, resting on Palladium’s iconic lug outsole, which effectively reduces foot fatigue. Furthermore, it features tasteful, decorative details that pay homage to its remarkable history.
New Course! Shoemaking for Designers & Brand Builders
Created for footwear beginners and career changers alike, this course delivers the basic shoemaking knowledge you need to get you career in the shoe trades started.
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The story behind these boots is truly captivating. The fact that they were originally designed for French Legionnaires and have now been updated for the modern explorer demonstrates the lasting appeal and versatility of this footwear. Whether you’re keen to embrace a piece of military history or simply appreciate the fusion of classic design with contemporary materials, the Pallabrousse Legion by Palladium is a remarkable example of heritage meeting modernity in the world of footwear.
Shoe Business Builder Pro Pack Bundle
A must-have for anyone serious about launching a footwear company. 4 text books, shoe business documents and downloadable content not available anywhere else! The Shoe Company Start-Up Pro Pack bundle is all you need to get your shoe business off the ground.
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