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Creating Sustainable Footwear: 5 Common Mistakes to Avoid

Creating Sustainable Footwear 5 Common Mistakes to Avoid

Creating Sustainable Footwear Goals

Creating sustainable products is a challenge for everyone on the footwear product team. Footwear designers, developers, marketing managers, and product managers all play a role in creating more sustainable products. Everyone must work together to ensure the product meets sustainability goals.

1. Don’t become trapped by unrealistic sustainability goals

Creating sustainable footwear is a huge challenge. Aim high but remember that sustainability is a process, and every little bit helps. Not every part of a shoe has a workable “green” alternative. If your team can add one sustainable feature, material, technology, or process per season, you are doing great!

2. Don’t tackle product sustainability alone

Creating more sustainable footwear is a team effort. The shoe designer must balance the shoe’s aesthetic quality with sustainable material choices while the product developer examines the hidden materials and processes. For example, it’s the footwear developer’s responsibility to find a water-based glue that will work. Meanwhile, the shoe designer’s challenge is to combine the limited material choices into a pleasing and saleable design.

The footwear product manager needs to make sure the sustainable choices do not break the product budget. There is a limit to the price premium customers will pay for sustainable alternatives. Roughly 80% of people will pay 5% more for the sustainable choice. When that choice costs 15% more, only 40% of customers are willing to purchase the more sustainable option.

 

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3. Don’t get stuck on a sustainable “LOOK”

While improved sustainability should be a goal for every shoe company, that does not mean the product aesthetic must tell the sustainable story. Yes, a sexy and sleek high-heel shoe can (and should) have sustainable components, but, most likely, you will not achieve this elegant look with a chopped-up, recycled rubber outsole and organic cotton upper.

High-performance sport or luxury shoes may have sustainable features and internal components, which the product marketing team completely ignores. If it’s not part of your brand image, it’s okay to avoid sustainability in your marketing.

4. Don’t compromise safety or performance for sustainability

Do not compromise the integrity of high-performance products to meet sustainability goals.
What does that mean? High-performance products have demanding material specifications for both product function and product safety. There may not be an alternative “green” material that does the job.

5. Don’t forget to read between the lines on your sustainability choices

Be careful, Some “sustainable materials” are not all they seem to be or may have unintended consequences when used. For example, organic cotton production and its high water requirements may not be a great choice for footwear when compared to standard, non-organic cotton growing. Studies suggest it takes twice the amount of water to grow organic cotton. With clean water in short supply, we need to look at close loop water usage.

Ocean plastic or “near ocean plastic” production sounds like a great idea, but…read the material descriptions carefully. Plastic removed from the ocean is a hash of many different plastic compounds. This mixed plastic material is reground and remelted, then remixed with virgin plastic to make a material suitable for reuse. The catch here is the final amount of actual ocean plastic may measure only 2% of the finished product by weight. Yes, 2% is great, but add in the extra energy inputs needed to make the “recycled” material, and it may not be so great anymore. So, what is “near ocean plastic?” Near ocean can mean plastic recovered within a few miles of the ocean. Think of coastal cities like New York, Houston, Miami, and Los Angeles. Everything recycled in these cities would be “near” the ocean. Does this really help keep the oceans clean?….maybe.

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#2 How to Select Shoe Materials
#3 Creating Footwear Specifications Course Details Enroll now

Do continue to make your shoes sustainable

As you can see, making your shoes more sustainable is a goal you should keep working toward. But, you need to approach sustainability carefully to ensure your efforts are indeed beneficial and not counterproductive to protecting the environment. Maybe your product can not be sustainably manufactured? This does not mean your company must sit on the sustainable sidelines. Use your sustainability budget to plant trees, install solar, buy green power, or purchase carbon offsets.

It’s our planet. We all need to participate.

New Online Course
How to Select Shoe Materials

14 Shoe Material lessons. Over 4 hours of video instruction. In-depth study of leather, textiles, synthetics, and plastics for footwear. Material Design Guide Textbook included. Course Details enroll now $399
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How much does it cost to build a sneaker?

Shoe Design : How to make your shoe design a SLAM dunk.

How much does it cost to make a sneaker?
How much money do you need to start a shoe business?
How much does it cost to start a shoe company?
How much money do I need if I want a shoe factory to build my dream sneaker?

Your shoe development cost questions are answered here!

Costs of Footwear Design & Development

Costs for building your sneaker are from $5000 to $15000

Let’s review the phases to build a sneaker and what it costs per phase:
Sneaker Design $0 to $5000
Sneaker Development $2000 to $3000
Sneaker Pre-Production Tooling $3500 to $7500
Sneaker Production Equipment $20,000 to $50,000

Cost of the shoe design: $0 to $5000

The Start-Up Shoe Brand Business Plan

 

Are you ready to start your own brand-building journey? Do your shoe business dream seems unattainable?

To build a sneaker, you will need a design. How much does it cost to design a sneaker?
If it is your design, then great the answer is $0!

If you need to hire a designer, the cost can run from $500 to $5,000. The cost is dependant upon the experience of your designer and if you need an upper design and an outsole design. Some shoe designers charge a flat fee for an entire shoe, some charge you piece by piece for the outsole and uppers. A great design is critical to your success as a new brand, so take your time and work hard to get this phase right. (Be aware, you may need to pay more if you want to get that Hot Shot Designer with shoemaking experience .)

Cost to develop a shoe last: $0 to $750

design a shoe last

If you select a shoe last that is “off the shelf” and available in the factory, the cost will be $0.

If you send the factory a shoe and ask them to create a similar last, the development fee may be $100 to $200. For example, a copy Nike Air Force One last will most likely cost about $200. If you want a full custom last based on a casting of your foot you can expect to pay closer to $750.

New Online Course
How much does it cost to
make a shoe?

Step-by-step how to create and analyze footwear costing sheets. 5 shoe cost calculation lessons. Over 1 1/2 hours of video instruction. Course Details enroll now $149

Costs to create a pattern from your shoe drawing:$250 to $500

Cost to create a pattern from your shoe drawing

Depending on the complexity of your design, the shoe factory will ask for up to $500 to create your shoe pattern. For your money, you will get two or three sample rounds which are often necessary to get the pattern just right. You will use these pattern trials as your fitting samples. The cost of air shipping the sample goods from the factory is extra. In many cases, once you place a production order, the shoe pattern cost will be refunded to you.

Cost to create an outsole blue print: $150 to $600

Cost to create an outsole blue print

Creating the outsole drawings is a highly technical skill. The cost will vary. Once you place a production order the cost will be refunded to you.

The factory will transfer your design drawings into their CAD system and make a 2D drawing for you to approve. After you approve the 2D drawing, the CAD technician builds the 3D CAD model and makes sure it fits your upper pattern design. The outsole factory will laser scan the upper to create the top net of the outsole.

Cost to build a solid model of your outsole design: $100 to $400

Cost to build a Solid model of your outsole design

Once you have the drawing approved, the factory will CNC cut or 3D print a full-size model for your study. This is called a woodcut or a REN. You can paint this and attach your upper to give you a real idea of what your dream sneaker will look like. Once you approve the model, the factory can make a “temporary” mold. With the temporary mold, you can make up to 10 pairs of poured foam outsoles for fitting tests, or marketing videos. These parts are great for photoshoots but will not last very long.

Sample Pairs: $50 to $100 per pair

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for Brand Builders

#1 Shoemaking Basics for Designers and Brand Builders
#2 How to Select Shoe Materials
#3 Creating Footwear Specifications Course Details Enroll now

Phase Two: Sneaker Pre-Production

shoe cutting dies

Tooling cost to build a cast metal foam midsole mold: $1475 one pair
Tooling cost to build a cast metal rubber pressing outsole mold: $1475 one pair
Custom logo EVA footbed mold: $475
Injection molds for plastic or rubber upper parts: $500 to $5000 depending on your design
Upper material cutting dies: $150
Pre-production samples: $50 to $100 per pair.

Phase Three: Sneaker Production tooling

Depending on your design and size run
Midsole mold: $1475 Per size : 7 to 14 per your requirement
Outsole mold: $1475 Per size : 7 to 14 per your requirement
Custom logo EVA footbed mold: $475 : 3 to cover a size run
Injection molds:$500 to $5000 Per size: 1 to 4 to cover a size run

This is roughly the cost to make your dream sneaker into a real production-ready shoe.

Can the Shoemakers Academy help me get started making my dream shoe?

Yes, we can! If you are ready to get started, the team at ShoemakersAcademy.com can be your shoemaking guide. We can help you find a footwear designer or development manager and put you in touch with a factory suited to your project. We also offer small group classes virtually to help you launch your brand and troubleshoot issues that may affect your production.

Schedule a call

New Online Course
Shoemaking for Designers
& Brand Builders

Created for footwear beginners and career changers alike, this course delivers the basic shoemaking knowledge you need to get your career in the shoe trades started. Course Details enroll now $99
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Sneaker Authentication Book

Ebook sneaker Authentication guide How To Spot Fake Nike Shoes: 10 Ways To Tell Real Nikes, How to Spot Fake Nikes, how to spot fake Jordan's, sneaker legit check

How To Spot Fake Sneakers

How to Inspect and Authenticate Air Jordan, Nike, Adidas, and Vans Sneakers.

How To Spot Fake Jordan’s

Do you want to learn how to spot fake Jordan’s? Can you tell if a pair of Yeezys are real or counterfeit? Are you looking to become a sneaker authenticator? Interested in growing your footwear construction and material knowledge?

How To Spot Fake Sneakers is your complete guide to sneaker authentication and inspection.  If you follow Step-by-step inspection checklist you will quickly master the sneaker authentication process. You will learn how to run a complete shoe inspection before you buy.

As a shoe authenticator, you won’t get ripped off.

Sneaker Authentication Basics

You will start with sneaker authentication basics then advance to study sneaker construction and professional footwear inspection techniques. How To Spot Fake Sneakers includes authentication basics, product provenance, footwear construction, and sneaker inspection details. Complete information and photographs on how to inspect the Nike Air Jordan 1 and Vans Old Skool.

Authentication Textbook
Inspect Shoes Like a Pro

Learn how to authenticate sneakers. We give the Nike Air Jordan 1 a complete shake down. Piece by piece we study every part. Don’t get burned buying fakes ever again! 135 pages, 425 color photos Buy Now On Sale $39.99

Sneaker Product Knowlege

Part 2 of How To Spot Fake Sneakers contains six chapters dedicated to the in-depth study of six iconic sneakers. Each chapter details what to look for when authenticating the shoes. See the real and fake shoes side-by-side. After a study of the outside, the knives come out so you can see what’s going on inside the shoes.

Both the authentic and fake shoes are sliced so you can see just how bad counterfeit shoes are with your own eyes. Chapters include, How To Spot A Fake Nike Air Jordan, How To Spot A Fake Nike ZoomX Vaporfly, How To Spot A Fake Vans Old Skool, How To Spot A Fake Nike Air Max 90, How To Spot A Fake Nike Day Break, How To Spot A Fake Adidas Yeezy 500.

New Online Course
Sneaker Authentication

13 Authentication lessons.
3 hours of video instruction.
In-depth study of footwear inspection techniques.
Authentication textbook included.
Course Details enroll now $199

What’s inside
How To Spot Fake Sneakers

CHAPTER 1 : SNEAKER AUTHENTICATION BASICS 

The skills required to master sneaker authentication
The sneaker authentication basics 

CHAPTER 2 : PRODUCT PROVENANCE 

The product provenance guidelines
Is the price right, or too good to be true?
Who, what, and where of sneaker buying 

CHAPTER 3 : FOOTWEAR CONSTRUCTION 

What is a shoe last?
The parts of a sneaker
Strobel lasting vs. board lasting
Cold cement vs. vulcanization
Sneaker construction terminology 

CHAPTER 4 : HOW TO INSPECT A SNEAKER 

How to inspect a sneaker like a pro
Fake shoes are cheap shoes
Shoe quality grades
Common shoe quality problems
Complete shoe inspection checklist 

CHAPTER 5 : HOW TO INSPECT THE VANS OLD SKOOL 

Checking for symmetry
Inspecting shoes inside and out
Are Vans good shoes? 

CHAPTER 6 : HOW TO INSPECT THE NIKE AIR JORDAN 1 MID OG 

Packing details
Check for symmetry
Colors and materials
Are Air Jordans good shoes? 

CHAPTER 7 : HOW TO SPOT A FAKE NIKE AIR JORDAN 

Authenticating the Air Jordan
See inside a real and a fake Air Jordan
What is missing in the outsole? 

CHAPTER 8 : HOW TO SPOT A FAKE NIKE ZOOMX VAPORFLY 

Authenticating the ZoomX Vaporfly NEXT%
Critical parts are missing
Can fake shoes be dangerous? 

CHAPTER 9 : HOW TO SPOT A FAKE VANS OLD SKOOL 

Authenticating the Vans Old Skool WTF is vulcanization?
This is what a bad fake looks like 

CHAPTER 10 : HOW TO SPOT A FAKE NIKE AIR MAX 90 

Authenticating the Nike Air Max 90
Look at the small details
The parts are all there, but they’re all wrong 

CHAPTER 11 : HOW TO SPOT A FAKE NIKE DAY BREAK 

Authenticating the Nike Daybreak
A simple shoe, simply made poorly
Did Nike make a fake version of their own shoe? 

CHAPTER 12 : HOW TO SPOT A FAKE ADIDAS YEEZY 500 

Authenticating the Adidas Yeezy 500
Kanye will be angry when he sees this shoe
Premium shoes are made of premium materials 

New Online Course Sneaker Authentication

Learn how to authenticate shoes. We give the Vans Old Skool a complete shake down. Piece by piece we will study every part. Don’t get burned buying fakes ever again! Course Details Enroll now $199
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Free Online Shoe School

Are you ready to supercharge your footwear career? With our exclusive All Access Pass, you’ll unlock the full potential of Shoemakers Academy’s online courses. Gain complete access to our extensive catalog, featuring 125 shoemaking lessons and over 35 hours of expert video instruction from none other than “The Shoe Dog” himself. Grab the All Access Pass and fast-track your way to success in the dynamic world of footwear!

Free Shoemaking Resources

  • SELF-PACED online learning for FREE: Scroll down to see “Unit 1: Learning the Basics of Shoemaking,” and start now.
  • HANDS-ON  learning with our SHOEMAKING TEXTBOOKS: Softcover and PDF Ebook textbooks for all levels plus shoemaking lasts, outsoles, and other hard-to-find materials. Visit our SHOEMAKING SUPPLY STORE.
  • CORPORATE TRAINING for teams and individuals: Customizable for your team at your level. High-School, University, Individual, Start-Ups, Large or Small Corporate teams. We got you covered.
  • PRIVATE CONSULTING with “The Shoe Dog”: Personal, 1-on-1 sessions to get you there faster.

https://vimeo.com/862961982

The Shoe Dog would like to give you a free lesson. Check out the starter course  Shoemaking for Brand Builders & Designers.

Welcome to the online shoe school

We have pulled together an online curriculum of shoemaking articles in a sequence that will take you from the basics of shoe design and shoemaking to advanced material selection topics. Step-by-step you will learn how to design shoes. This collection of articles teaches shoemaking for beginner students of the trade.

Learn how to make shoes with our free online course. You study the basics of shoe design and techniques for mass production. Get a firm grasp of shoemaking terminology, shoe patterns, and construction. Our shoe-making tutorials take just a few hours to read. Supplement your learning with our shoemaking books, materials, and virtual classes for aspiring shoe designers, material managers, brand managers, beginner patternmakers, and at-home shoemakers.

We have taken great care to make learning easy. Throughout our articles you will see shoemaking terms like “last” and “eyestay” highlighted in blue. Simply move your mouse over the highlighted terms to see the definitions. So easy! You can also see all the shoemaking terms together in our Shoe Terms Dictionary.

This course will cover the basics of shoe design and mass production techniques and give you a firm grasp of shoemaking terminology, shoe patterns, and construction. We cover how to design a sneaker tech pack like a professional. The second half is a footwear development class.

Jumpstart your career now. Let’s begin

New Online Course!
Shoemaking for Designers & Brand Builders

Created for footwear newcomers and professionals alike, this course delivers the basic shoemaking knowledge you need to get your career and brand started faster and with fewer costly mistakes.
Course Details
Enroll Now $99

How To Make Shoes
DIY Kits Complete!

We put it all together for you. DIY Build Kits include your choice of material, size, color, step-by-step written instructions. Learn how to assemble shoes
Check It Out!
you can do it!

Unit 1:  Learning the Basics of Shoemaking

In Unit 1 of our shoemaking course, you learn the step-by-step basics of shoemaking and construction. What shoe lasts are and how they determine the shape of your shoe. You will also learn about the parts of a shoe. If you want to learn how to make shoes…you are in the right place!

What does it take to make a sneaker?
How does a factory make shoes?
The shoe last
How Shoes are Made: the basics
Shoe parts diagram
Shoe pattern parts
Running shoe parts terminology
How a new shoe is made: shoe development process
How Shoes are Made video
How to become a shoe designer – 10 steps
Shoe terms dictionary

UNIT 2: Learning Shoe Construction Techniques

Now that you understand the basics, let’s move on to the details of shoe construction, shoe lasting, and what is inside the guts of your shoe. We will cover the two most popular styles of shoe construction: Cold Cement and Vulcanized construction.

Shoe lastingWhat’s inside shoes? Shoe reinforcements
Cold cement vs. vulcanized shoe construction
How Converse All-Stars are made: vulcanized process
How are Nike shoes are made: cold cement construction
Shoe outsole tooling
Shoe construction techniques
What is a fitting trial for shoes? 

UNIT 3: Learning How to Design Shoes

Once you have read through Units 1 and 2, you will have enough basic shoemaking knowledge to start designing your shoe projects. In Unit 3, you will learn how to design shoes. We will review how to go about drawing shoes and how to make shoe patterns.

The shoe design brief
How to draw shoes
Shoe patterns
Shoe designer vs. shoe pattern maker
How to become a shoe designer – 10 steps
What is a shoe pattern?
How to make a shoe pattern
How to design shoe outsole tooling – Part 1
A shoe designer’s tools
Shoe design: logos for shoes
How to make your shoe design a SLAM dunk.

UNIT 4:  How to Specify your Shoe Design

With your new design drawn up, let’s dig deeper and learn how to make a real factory-ready shoe specification sheet. A detailed shoe specification (called a spec sheet) will allow the shoe factory to create just what you are looking for. This footwear development class will teach you how to make your design “production” ready. This section of the shoemaking course will teach you the language and give you the tools to create a proper and professional shoe design specification sheet. You will learn how to design a sneaker tech pack.

Is my shoe design ready for production?
The shoe design specification drawing
How to make a shoe production specification
How to select footwear materials
The Designers Guide to Shoe Material Suppliers
How to spec shoe colors……the Pantone book!
Nike Air Jordan 1 design review: shoe edges
The designer’s guide to shoe leather
How to design shoes – synthetic leather
Textiles for shoe design
Shoe design: know your footbeds
The Designer’s Guide to Shoe Materials 

Unit 5: Start your own shoe business

Are you ready to start your own shoe business? Now it is time to dig deeper into the shoe business. We will help you answer these critical questions! Is shoemaking profitable? How much does it cost to start a shoe company? How do I manufacture my own sneakers? What is the profit margin on shoes? How much money do you need to start a shoe business?  How much should I charge for my shoes?

How much does it cost to make a sneaker?
Finding shoe agents and shoe development contracts
Can I start a shoe company?
How to Start a Shoe Brand
How to Start Your Own Shoe Company
Manufacturing and Importing Your Shoes
How to Build a Shoe Factory
Planning Your Shoe Manufacturing Business
How much does it cost to build a sneaker?
Business Plans for Start-Up Shoe Brands
Italian Quality Handmade Shoes in China
New brand story Nummulit – Urban Shoes with a Minimalist Sole
Make Your Shoe Design Factory Ready: Shoe Maker’s Pre-Flight Checklist

Unit 6: Keep Learning

There is always more to learn in the field of shoemaking. In this section of the course, we have a few more articles that will help you on your journey to becoming a real shoe pro.

Jobs in the shoe trades: working for a shoe brand
Download a shoe last for 3D printing
Can I get custom-made shoes? Yes!
How shoe lasts are made, by Tsubo
Shoemaking books on Amazon
Shoe design books are available on Amazon NOW!
Hand tools for shoemaking
How shoe lasts are made
How New Balance shoes are made
Design & Production of Sustainable Shoes

DIY Shoemaking
Make your own shoes

We put it all together for you. DIY Build Kits include your choice of material, size, color, step-by-step written instructions. Learn shoe making techniques
Check It Out!
you can do it!


Online shoemaking course

Textbooks for Shoemakers

Every aspiring shoe designer and start-up brand should read this series. Available in full-color, printed softcover format or instant delivery with the PDF ebook format.

How Shoes are Made: Covers the basics of shoemaking, shoe design, and manufacturing. Everything you need to know if you are starting in a shoe design office. This is a shoe design handbook for footwear designers and also applicable for beginner shoemakers. Available in softcover or ebook / PDF format.

Footwear Pattern Making and Last Design: This book covers the craft of footwear pattern making, including a step-by-step guide to patternmaking for beginners. This book will show you how lasts are made, the shoe last design process, hidden geometry, special features, functions, and size grading principles.

Shoe Material Design Guide: This will complete your shoe design book library. This book is a masterclass dedicated entirely to the selection and sourcing of shoe materials—an ideal handbook for shoemakers, footwear designers, footwear developers, and shoe manufacturers.

How To Start Your Own Shoe Company: This book is written for shoe entrepreneurs new and old. Not just for shoe designers, How To Start Your Own Shoe Company is a perfect training aid for footwear product line managers and shoe company brand managersh

New Online Courses
for Brand Builders

#1 Shoemaking Basics for Designers and Brand Builders
#2 How to Select Shoe Materials
#3 Creating Footwear Specifications

Course Details

Enroll now
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Nummulit – Urban Shoes with a Minimalist Sole

The barefoot sport shoe Nummulit Ignis provides lightness, flexibility and stability for every workout, walk or run.

Today we interview Josep Puig, owner of Nummulit Urban Shoes, and reveal his challenges and solutions in starting his niche barefoot shoe brand. Enjoy!

The barefoot sport shoe Nummulit Ignis provides lightness, flexibility and stability for every workout, walk or run.
The barefoot sport shoe Nummulit Ignis provides lightness, flexibility and stability for every workout, walk or run.

The Shoe Dog: 
Hey Josep, thank you for speaking with me and sharing your story with our shoemaking community.

Josep: 
Hi Wade. The pleasure is mine. It is a great honor for me to share this time with you. Without the help of your books, Nummulit shoes would not have been the same. (go to www.nummulit.com/gb/ for more information)

The Shoe Dog: 
Please tell us about yourself and how you got interested in shoes.

Josep: 
I’m a big foot, I have a size 47EU. I am 41 years old and an engineer. I live with my wife and our 3 little children in Girona, Spain. Girona is a very beautiful city and well known by runners, cyclists, triathletes, and others for its quality of life and it is a quiet area with a fantastic environment for outdoor sports due to the proximity to the mountains, the sea, the lake, etc. We also have excellent facilities for indoor and track sports.

I have competed in various sports since I was little (soccer, basketball, mountain biking, running), but always as an amateur. To give you an idea of my level: my time in a half marathon is 1h40m. Due to my knee injuries, I became interested in footwear, orthotics, rehab, functional exercises, footprint studies, and posture very early in life.

Looking for solutions, I went from conventional, cushioned footwear with pronation control to orthopedic insoles and all the rest. In 2010, thanks to my brother-in-law who introduced me to the bestselling book, Born to Run, I discovered an opposite approach – barefoot or minimalist footwear. 

So, I started going barefoot most of the time and bought my first minimalist shoes, a pair of Vibram FiveFingers KSO. And for me, there is no turning back.

I haven’t studied at an official shoe school, but I’ve been training on my own for years. I’ve attended fairs and seminars, read books. I’m in touch with various manufacturers, developers, and designers from whom I have learned a lot about footwear. I have also received advice on biomechanics and foot health from my wife, who is a physiotherapist.

Step by Step Guide
Footwear Brand Building

Learn in-depth about the costs to make a shoe and the rules for importing footwear. Checkout How To Start Your Own Shoe Company. 195 pages, 330 color photos. Buy Now On Sale $39.99

The Shoe Dog: 
Great! I think our readers would like to hear more about your shoe brand, Nummulit (you can visit the website here www.nummulit.com).

Josep:
Nummulit shoes are a chameleonic way to wear minimalist shoes. Just like nummulite fossils are camouflaged among the stones of Girona, Nummulit shoes go unnoticed among conventional footwear. In this way, the brand aims to be able to wear minimalist sneakers discreetly.

We offer footwear that is comfortable from the first moment and throughout the day, respects the nature of our walking, and has a casual look.

The Shoe Dog: 
What a great niche for a shoe brand. Can you tell us more about the concept of barefoot shoes? Nummulit designs look more conventional than other barefoot shoes? Why do your shoes look the way they do?

Josep: 
Yes, the main feature of minimalist footwear is to protect the feet and not restrict movement or change the way we step.

To be minimalist, a shoe has to be very flexible, without interfering with the foot’s natural movements or limiting the feet in any direction. The sole must be thin, without any cushioning. The think sole increases sensitivity and favors a close connection between the foot and the ground, improving stability and proprioceptive sense. The last on which they are built has to be wide, so there is no pressure on the toes. Conventional footwear usually has a difference of several centimeters between the heel and the metatarsal, while in minimalist shoes, the inclination of the sole is practically zero. This is known as “zero-drop.” This helps one’s posture when walking or running and encourages the natural movement of other parts of the body such as the knees, hips, or back. In addition, minimalist footwear is very lightweight to make the most of our energy.

In general terms, it is a shoe that improves foot mobility.

To achieve this, each barefoot footwear brand offers its particular point of view. For example, some have removed internal insoles. At Nummulit, we considered that it is an element that can give comfort, be hygienic, and at the same time allow a natural walk or run. Some brands have shoes with toes, which are great, and I wear them from time to time, but I don’t feel comfortable going to the office wearing these types of shoes. All of these pros and cons have been considered and have contributed to making Nummulit shoes the way they are. 

The Shoe Dog: 
Many of our aspiring shoemakers worry about the costs of launching a new shoe brand. Can you share your experience organizing the money to get started?

The barefoot sport shoe Nummulit Ignis provides lightness, flexibility and stability for every workout, walk or run.
Super Flexible!

Josep: 
The product cost and sale price are basic to creating any business and deciding where to position your brand in the market. I started with your book, How to Start Your Own Shoe Company, and worked through every step necessary to move the company forward (tax consulting, web costs, shipping to customers … everything). 

I built spreadsheets for every item and considered the best solution for each. For example, what taxes and customs will I pay in Europe? What online payment gateway will I use to calculate commissions? How much will the outsole molds cost? Doing this took a lot of work and time, including contacting manufacturers and service providers asking for different quotes, and so on. 

New shoemakers need to consider the minimum volumes required by the manufacturer and the costs you can afford. Also, most importantly, you must be very clear about the costs of marketing and advertising. Even if it’s simple, you need to have a marketing plan!

Once I struck a balance between the spreadsheet numbers and my available budget, it was time to start the next challenge.

New Online Courses
for Brand Builders

#1 Shoemaking Basics for Designers and Brand Builders
#2 How to Select Shoe Materials
#3 Creating Footwear Specifications Course Details Enroll now

The Shoe Dog: Josep, can you take us through a normal working day for you?

Josep: 
In the mornings, I work as a computer scientist, and in the afternoons, I dedicate my time to Nummulit:

I always start by handling new orders, then incidents (size changes, returns, customer replies). I divide my time between marketing and social media, and I continually look for solutions to delegate these tasks or to cut down on the time they take.

Other jobs need regular dedication too, like long-term strategy, company management, etc.

The Shoe Dog: 
What do you have in mind for your next steps?

Josep: 
I am clear that the next step is to increase the sizes we offer. I would also like to expand the color range and restyle our current models.

In the short term, I would like to create new models of sneakers and sportswear in the line of minimalist footwear, which are very versatile and keep with conventional aesthetics 

I’ve been asked to create children’s shoes, trail shoes, and to add particular features such as waterproofing, etc. These suggestions are great and give me very good ideas, but I have to think carefully about using my limited resources.

The Shoe Dog: 
Can you share with us your biggest challenge and how you overcame it?

Josep: 
Minimalist footwear is not very popular among manufacturers. Thus, the first thing I set out to do was to create a clear and precise design brief to communicate my ideas. This also helped me to be taken seriously despite not having a track record in the business. Once you have secured a manufacturer, you have to know how to express yourself very well because every sample you request and every mistake you make costs money. Therefore, you have to work smart to stay within budget. In addition, minimalist footwear is performance footwear, and functionality is paramount: a millimeter or so of material in one place or another completely changes the function of the shoe.

The Shoe Dog: 
Thank you for taking the time to talk to us. Any final advice to share with others thinking about launching a shoe brand?

Josep: 
Thank you so much for the opportunity to share about myself and Nummulit running shoes. Also, thank you for guiding me through the journey with your books. Final advice: Be eager and keep up your energy! These are the main ingredients needed to solve the different problems that may arise when creating your footwear company. But, without a doubt, it’s a great experience.

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What is a fitting trial for shoes? 

Do I need to run a fitting trial for my new shoes? 

A shoe fitting trial or fit trial is a footwear brand’s process to confirm a new shoe fits correctly and feels good on the user’s feet. The goal of a fitting trial is to evaluate the entire size run and determine if a shoe fits correctly and is true to its size. 

A fit trial is complementary to a wear test. In wear testing, the shoe brand will focus on the function and durability of a shoe.
(Learn more about fit testing, wear testing, and other pre-production procedures in our books
How to Start Your Own Shoe Company 
How Shoes Are Made books and ebooks.)

Big brands like Nike, Adidas, and Jordan have entire departments responsible for running fitting trials. For example, every new Nike shoe must pass a fit trial before being approved for mass production.

Proper fitting shoes will keep your return rate down and your profit margin up.

The average return rate for mail-order shoes with poor fitting is 30%! 

Yes! You need a fit trial.

A shoe fit trial must be part of your production quality assurance program. A great-looking shoe that does not fit the size mark or does not fit proportionally is not high-quality. A new last, a new outsole, or a new upper design will require a fitting trial. A proper fitting trial during the pre-production process allows the brand time to adjust the size and fit of the shoe before wear testing, size grading, marketing, and selling.

(For more information on pre-production testing and quality assurance processes check out How to Start Your Own Shoe Company and How Shoes Are Made books and ebooks.)

Setting up your shoe fit trial

When developing your shoe, the first size made is called the “model” size. The model size is usually USA 9 for men’s and USA 7 for women’s shoes. The shoe brand or the shoe manufacturing factory will have someone on staff who is the fit model. The fit model’s feet measure close to the ideal standards for an M9 or W7. You need to complete the fitting work on the sample size before the size grading and the full-size run fitting trial can begin.

Before the fitting trial: Inspect your samples.

Do you see any loose spots or wrinkles on the upper? First, remove any shoe stuffing and check that your samples are not crushed or twisted from shipping. Next, run your hand inside the shoe to feel for any rough stitching or wrinkles in the footbed. Finally, properly lace each shoe and then take the time to loosen the laces, so it’s easy for your test subjects to get their foot in the shoe and adjust it.

Running a proper fitting trial? Needs:

1. A full-size run of the test shoes.

2. A measuring tape.

3. A Brannock™ device for measuring feet.

(Learn more about the Brannock™ device and other shoe tools in How Shoes Are Made.)

4. A questionnaire to record the stated foot size, measured foot size, 

sample shoe size preference, and any footwear fitting comments. 

5. As many people as you can get to try on your shoes!

6. It is a good idea to have socks available in a standard thickness for your test subjects.

How to run a fitting trial 

Find a place and time to gather your shoes and test subjects together. Ideally, you will test one person at a time without the other test subjects listening in on the test. When your test subject arrives, record the size of the shoes they are wearing. It’s a good idea also to record the brand of shoe they are wearing as some brands are known to fit larger or smaller.

Next, measure your test subject’s feet yourself with a Brannock™ device. Make sure to note the length and width. Also, try to record the ball girth of their feet. You will need this information to help you qualify the subjective feedback when fitting the shoe. You will also need to screen your test subjects for abnormal foot shape or physical issues affecting the fitting.

Finally, select a shoe for your subject to try. Once the tester has the shoe on, ask them to stand up and give their first reaction before flexing or walking in the shoe. 

If you have a soft shoe, you can press on the toe box to feel if the subject’s toes are touching the end of the shoe. When standing, the toe tips should not be touching the inside end of the shoe.

If the shoe feels good, instruct the subject to walk and get a feel for the shoes as they flex in motion. Your test subjects may run if you are fitting a sports shoe. 

You can ask the test subject to record their feedback on a questionnaire or interview the subject. Your goal is to understand if the length, width, and volume feel right. During a fitting trial, you should be studying the shoe as the test subject flexes. Look for the following:

1. Does the shoe gap open or pinch?

2. Do you see loose spots or wrinkles?

3. Does the test subject’s heel lift out of the shoe?

4. Does the subject feel the pressure points or stitching inside the shoe.  

5. Make any comments on the length, width, and height.

6. Does the top line feel comfortable around the ankle bones and Achilles tendon?

The result of your fitting trail  

If the shoes fit great and look great for every test subject, fantastic! If you see any issues, now is the time to record the faults and work with the factory technicians and pattern makers to correct them. In the end, a properly run fitting trial will give you the confidence to move ahead in your shoe production or give you the information needed to make adjustments. 

My sample size fit test is complete. Now what?

For the next steps in the pre-production process, including size grading, wear testing, and quality control procedures check out these shoemaking books.
Start Your Own Shoe Company 
How Shoes Are Made 
Footwear Pattern Making and Last Design

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Channel stitching a sneaker sole

For a DIY sneaker project, it’s a good idea to reinforce the cement bonding with outsole channel stitching. You can stitch the toe, heel, or the entire perimeter. In the shoe factory, the workers will use a purpose-built channel stitching machine. The skilled worker can stitch a pair of shoes in less than a minute. Unfortunately, we don’t have this special equipment in our DIY workshop so we will use the Speedy Stitcher. You can find the Speedy Stitcher on Amazon.

Using the Speedy Stitcher

The Speedy Stitcher is a heavy-duty sewing awl with a built-in supply of thread. Follow the instructions on the package to assemble the stitcher with the straight needle and the thread running from inside.

Getting started with the Speedy Stitcher

Here, you can see step-by-step stitching operations with the Speedy Stitcher. I am using a rubber sole without the upper attached for teaching purposes.

First, push the threaded need into the groove. Next, with the needle inside the shoe, pull the loose end of the thread through the hole. While holding the loose end of the thread inside the shoe, withdraw the needle. You will need the loose end to hold the stitches inside the shoe, so pull enough thread into the shoe to wrap the entire perimeter of the sole. This will be 80 cm to sew a size 11 or 44 shoe! This thread will be your bobbin thread as you sew.

You will use the entire length as you work around the inside perimeter of the shoe. Don’t worry if you run short, you can knot off the end and start a new thread line.

To complete your first stitch, push the needle back into the sole 10mm beyond your first hole. With the needle inside, pull the thread away from the needle, making a loop. While holding the loop in place inside the shoe, withdraw the needle. Next, feed the inside bobbin thread through the loop. You can add a hooked needle to the inner thread to make this operation easier. Now, tension the outside thread and the inside thread to secure the stitch. You have made your first stitch!

When you are working inside the toe of your shoe, pull the inner loop 2 or 3 inches long so you can see the loop and easily feed in the bobbin thread.

Here is the step-by-step sole stitching process

Stitching your shoe sole

Your first stitch may take a few minutes to get right. Be patient. With a little practice, you will move faster. Hand stitching your outsole may take you an hour or more. Relax, play some music. You will build muscle memory and a rhythm. Inside the toe of the shoe can be a challenge; make sure you have a well-lit workspace, and it’s okay to pull the inner loop out long enough so you can see when to feed the bobbin thread.

When you get to the end, knot the threads together and trim them off. Now, run your hand along the inside to check for any loose threads or rough spots. Jobe done!

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Outsole Cementing Process

DIY Outsole assembly

DIY outsole cementing: step-by-step process

Today in the workshop, we are finishing the assembly of our sneaker test pattern. Here, we will cover the step-by-step process of preparing the outsole units and uppers for cold cementing and sole stitching. We don’t have a shoe factory with presses and heat tunnels so we are going to adapt the cold cement process for the home workshop and DIY shoemaker.

Sneaker sole cementing tools

Before we cement together our sneaker, we will need to collect some tools. For this process, we are going to use as many common household tools as possible.

Sneaker sole cementing tools

Sneaker Sole Cementing Tools
  1. Cement (I like Barge)
  2. Cement thinner (Make sure you have the correct thinner for your cement!)
  3. Brushes
  4. Shoehorn (if you are making a Strobel shoe)
  5. Sandpaper or rotary buffing tool
  6. Pencil
  7. Flat-faced hammer
  8. Clamps
  9. Non-staining tape

Sneaker parts

You need your upper, your last, and your outsole unit. If your upper has laces, make sure you have threaded the shoelaces or have some temporary laces installed.

Washing your sneaker outsoles

Washing your sneaker outsoles Yes! You should wash your outsole parts.

Yes! You should wash your outsole parts. During the manufacturing process, the production mold is sprayed with a lubricant. The lubricant spray helps the rubber flow in the mold and allows the hot metal and rubber to be separated once the molding is complete. Before you can bond your parts, give them a hot soapy bath.

Lasting your uppers

Lasting your upper

If you are building a board-lasted shoe, you may already have your uppers lasted and ready. In this case, I will show you how to prepare a Strobel upper. Carefully slip or force the last into the upper. If the upper is very tight, you may use a damp towel and a little heat to soften the upper. I have a proper industrial shoehorn to help. Work slowly so that you stretch the upper without damaging the material or stressing the seams. Make sure the shoelaces are loose. If you have a hinged last you can “break” the last to get it inserted, then carefully close the last to tighten the upper.

 
Lasting your upper

With the last completely inside, tension the laces bottom to top. Pull tight! Now, check the upper fitting to make sure you don’t have any loose spots. You can use a hammer to seat the heel and toe down to the last. You may need to tighten the laces again afterward. Make a final check that the pattern is straight and not crooked or rotated on the last. If you steamed the upper or used a damp towel, now is a good time to dry the upper with a hairdryer. Let the upper cool off and dry out; this will help pull the upper tight to the last. Now, recheck your shoelace tension.

Lasting your upper

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Test fitting the upper to the outsole unit

With the upper tight to the last, it’s time to double-check the fit of the sole unit. Most rubber outsole parts have some stretch, and we are looking for a tight fit. If the rubber is loose, you will need to downsize. It’s better to stretch a small unit than try to bond an oversized part.

Check the fitting around the length, toe perimeter, across the bottom, and sidewalls.

Marking the upper

To prepare the upper, mark the bonding surface that will be in contact with the rubber sidewall. In the factory, a worker uses a press to hold the parts together. You can use a clamp, rubber bands, or a tabletop. Firmly press the sole and upper together and, using a pencil, lightly mark the edge. This is the cement line.

How to use the cement line

The cement line shows you where to rough your upper and apply shoe cement. Depending on the upper material for your shoe, you may need to rough (or buff) the bonding surface. Suede and mesh materials don’t require buffing. Smooth leather and PU leather materials will require some roughing to ensure the primer and cement penetrate the materials. Following the cement line, use sandpaper or a rotary tool to lightly buff the material’s surface. Be careful not to grind too much or damage the stitching. You must never rough above the pencil line, as this will show after the sole is attached.

Roughing the outsole

While you have your roughing tools in hand, it’s a good idea to rough the inside surface of the outsole unit. After you have roughed the upper and outsole, you must clean away any dust. Use a vacuum, high-pressure air, or dry towel to clean all the parts. You must remove any dust for the bondings surfaces.

Priming your shoe parts 

Primer is a mixture of shoe cement and cement thinner. You must test it first to make sure you have the correct thinner for your cement. The idea is to thin the cement into a liquid that can penetrate the upper materials and the surface of the rubber parts. Try a mix of 50% or even 75% thinner. 

Coat the bonding surfaces of the upper and outsole with the primer, let it dry for a few minutes, and prime again.

The shoe factory will use a different primer for the rubber and upper parts but for our DIY shoe project we can use the same primer mix for both.  

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Cementing

Once the primer coats on your outsole and upper are completely dry, you can apply the cement. Follow the same procedure and apply multiple light coats of cement to both the upper and the outsole. Again, be careful not to cement above your line.

Now, wait! On a hot, dry day in California, the cement will dry to the touch in just a few minutes. If you are working in a cool, damp London studio, you may need to add a little heat to dry the cement. Be patient! DO NOT put wet parts together.

 

A word about shoemaking contact cement

The cement we are using is not like Elmer’s glue, epoxy, Superglue, or other types of glue you may have used. We are using CONTACT cement. What does that mean?

Contact cement must be dry when the parts are brought together. The cement has already bonded to the parts and when we bring the parts together we are bonding the cement to itself “on contact.” If the cement is wet and the parts can slide against each other the bond will not be strong.

Assembly

When the parts look dry, test the surface with your fingertip. The cement should be tacky but not wet. Now, the tricky part. Starting at the heel of the shoe, bring the parts together. We are using CONTACT cement, so the goal is to press the parts together and not slide them against each other. Getting the heel lined up straight is critical to getting the sole application right.

 

Start by touching the heel down into the sole. To do this, bend the rubber sole backward and try to keep the side walls “open” as you apply the sole to the upper. It is a good idea to practice this assembly procedure with dry parts, so you feel how to do it. Next, work your way from the heel to the toe. Don’t press the sidewalls yet.

Before you press the sidewalls, it is a good idea to press the bottom down hard onto your work surface to ensure the upper is fully seated in the sole. If you see the sidewall is below the marked line,
carefully peel back the sidewall and push it into place once the bottom edge is seated.

Fitting and pressing the parts together

In the factory, they use a press; we can use clamps, a hammer, our thumbs, and tape to make sure the sidewall is in full contact with the upper. If you see any gaps you can peel back the upper and apply more cement. Make sure to hold the sidewall back for a few minutes to let the glue dry. Press firmly. Now relax and let the glue cure.

Removing the last from the upper

With the upper cooled and the glue cured, it’s time to remove the last. For sports shoes with open eye stays, simply loosen or remove the laces and push the last out from the bottom. For leather shoes with solid vamps, “break” the last on the hinge and remove it. Many shoemakers drill a hole and thread a cord thru the last to create a handle. Then, they use the cord to pull the last out of the shoe. For leather shoes, be very careful not to crease the shoe when removing the last.

Outsole Stitching Process

Stitching the sole
For a DIY sneaker project, it’s a good idea to reinforce the cement bonding with outsole channel stitching. You can stitch the toe, heel, or the entire perimeter to keep your sole fixed in place.
See the step-by-step channel stitching process here.

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Sneaker Lasts for DIY Shoemakers

CLASSIC VAS STYLE SHOE LAST SHOE MAKING KIT MATCHING SNEAKER SOLE

Side view Vans sneaker last Side view hinged sneaker last
SNF-1 Hinged shoe least

Hormas El Arbol in León, Mexico

Today is a big day at the sneaker factory workshop! The lasts arrived from León, Mexico. Our sneaker last, SNF-1, is made by Hormas El Arbol. Hormas El Arbol is one of the top last makers in Mexico. The SNF-1 is made of high-density polyethylene plastic and has a spring hinge. These lasts are made by injection molding the rough shape then turning (machining) it down to the exact shape and size. The team at Hormas El Arbol has done an incredible job with our SNF-1 last, it’s perfect and easy to use! You can see the SNF-1 lasts here.

How the sneaker last is made

SNF-1 Last : Pure sneaker styling!

Side view Vans sneaker last
Classic sneaker styling

The SNF-1 shoe last allows for a sleek vamp and toe box yet it’s accommodatingly wide in the midfoot. The SNF-1 shoe last features a defined feather edge (suitable for both hand-lasting and Strobel-lasting footwear constructions). The spring hinge allows for easy removal without damaging your shoes. You can buy the SNF-1 lasts here.

Sneaker Last DIY shoemaking

Based on the classic “Vans” styling, the SNF-1 last instep is suitable for low-cut, mid-cut, and high-top patterns. This casual shoe last also works for slip-on and lace-up style shoes.

Last and matching outsole – Now Available!

This matched set is perfect for your DIY pattern-making and home shoemaking projects. Together, the proven SNF-1 sneaker last and our classic rubber cupsole unit are a great choice for making casual-style shoes. The classic cupsole unit has a high sidewall for bonding. The rubber egg-crate midsole provides cushioning and reduces weight. The modeled sidewall groove allows for a secure stitch-down attachment.

CLASSIC VAS STYLE SHOE LAST SHOE MAKING KIT MATCHING SNEAKER SOLE

The SNF-1 last and classic cupsole are ready for your custom shoe build. You can buy the SNF-1 lasts and outsoles here.

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Make Your Shoe Design Factory Ready: Shoe Maker’s Pre-Flight Checklist

Make Your Shoe Design Factory Ready: Shoe Maker's 10 Point Pre-Flight Checklist

Making a beautiful design drawing of your new shoe idea is a great first step; now, it’s time to finish your design. The design drawing is just one piece of information you need to communicate your design to the shoe factory. To ensure your sample shoe looks and functions just as you imagined, you’ll need to detail every aspect of your design. 

Shoe Designers Pre-Flight Checklist. 

Shoe Design Check list You need a shoe Last.

Before the factory can create the initial samples for your shoe design, you will need to supply a last. Your factory may have a suitable last in their stock, or the factory can have a matching last made to order from a sample shoe. It’s best to make your design drawings with the last in hand, but you can duplicate the silhouette before you have the physical last in your hands if you are following a competitor’s sample. If you are designing for an established shoe brand, the brand may be able to give you the correct last before you start your project. 

Shoe Design Check list Shoe design drawings

You will need a complete set of shoe design drawings. With your design idea and last silhouette, you can create a complete set of drawings for your footwear specifications. The factory needs drawings with every design line clearly detailed. Your set of drawings should include:

shoe design tech pack

Lateral View (outside of the shoe) 
Medial View (inside of the shoe)
Heel View (view from the back) 
Tongue View (showing any logo art) 
Vamp View (looking down on the toe) 
Detailed views of any small plastic parts

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Shoe Design Check list Outsole design drawings

You will need a complete set of outsole design drawings. Outsole blueprints are difficult and time-consuming to make. As a designer, your responsibility is to detail the outsole unit’s style lines and character details. The exact shape and size of the outsole is the responsibility of the outsole design engineer. The design engineer will take your shoe sole design and measurements from the lasted upper and create detailed technical drawings. You will need to supply the design engineer with the following drawings:

how to draw shoe outsoles

Outsole side profile
OutsoleTop view to show technical details
Outsole bottom view to show the tread pattern
Detail views of injection parts
Cross-section views of length and width

Shoe Design Check list Stitching design and seam details

If your shoe is sewn together, you need to add the stitching details to your drawings. The stitching detail lines will show which pattern parts are overlays and underlays. You should also communicate if the stitches are single line, double line, zig-zag, thin thread, or heavy thread. If your design entails rolled edges, binding edges, Frenched edges, butt seams, or overlays, you need to communicate these details in your drawings.

Shoe Design Check list Shoe upper material map

The material map is a drawing that clearly shows the materials you have in mind for each part. The factory uses this information to make the appropriate pattern for the parts. A die-cut leather part will have a different pattern from a fabric part of the same shape made with rolled edges.

What materials are Nike shoes made of?
Shoe Design Check list Color map


Color map of the first sample colorway. A color map diagram of upper and outsole parts shows the factory where to add color dams or pattern breaks.    

Color map showing future plans for color breaks
Shoe Design Check list Texture map

Texture map showing the surface details of every part. The surface texture is an important part of your shoe design. Texture specifications will add an extra dimension to your shoe designs. 

Shoe Design Check list Logo Designs

Logo designs: Take extra care to draw your logos in the exact scale they will appear on your shoe design. This step will ensure the logos are legible and will help you decide how to execute your color. For example, a 3D mold or laser can create tiny letters 2mm tall, while an embroidery machine requires lettering to be a minimum of 5mm tall to be readable.    

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Shoe Design Check list Foam padding specs

Foam padding specs: The foam padding specifications for the shoe tongue, collar, and upper padding are critical when defining your shoe’s silhouette. Is your shoe designed as sleek or puffy? Detail these parts carefully to get the look you desire.   

Shoe Design Check list Reinforcement & construction notes

Reinforcement specs and construction notes: Tell the factory exactly how you want your shoe made. Is your shoe a soft Stobel bottomed casual shoe or a sturdy board-lasted walking shoe? It’s best if you can detail the construction you require. If you are unsure how to make the shoe, do your best to explain the functionality necessary and ask your factory developer to help you specify the best construction process.  

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